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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holey Moley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Place To Hide T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gary Anderson, Art Messier
Page Views: 1,320 total · 9/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb the first two pitches if you are the ~5.8 level. Find a more exciting way to the Holy Moley Ledge to do the third pitch if you are at the ~5.10 level. First pitch is short straightforward trad climbing. Second pitch is low angle frictiony slab climbing. Third pitch is steep and cruxy all the way up.

P1 (5.8, 70 feet): Trad, two bolts, and a few cams, .5-4. You can see bolted anchor from the ground. The only trad climb on the right side that leads to a bolted anchor. Original FA says 5.8, this pitch is probably easier than that.

P2 (5.8, 130 feet): Friction up and right on a bolted slab to the Holey Moley Ledge. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.10c, 140 feet): Thirteen bolts leads up thin climbing with some lieback moves and a small roof in the middle of the pitch. The pitch wanders slightly to follow weaknesses up the wall. Make sure to have enough draws and an anchor for this long one.

Location

Right side. Look for only climb without a bolt line to a bolted anchor not too far from the ground.

For third pitch, furthest right climb on the Holey Moley Ledge. Just left of the dihedral with the death dagger. Look for a large undercling at the start to find this climb.

Protection

A light rack of cams (.5-4 or thereabouts) for the first pitch. 13 draws plus two anchors for the rest. All pitches have bolted anchors. Rap on two ropes or one with more stops along the way.

Photos

T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Suggested cams for P1- C4's in .5, .4, and/or 3. Guide says P2 is a 10a, which must be wrong since it definitely felt like more of a cruise than P1. Third pitch is devious, sustained from the very start to the very end. Thin clipping stances, thin holds, and baking on a hot day. Slab skills will help on some of it. Oct 2, 2011