Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Center/Headwall

Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+
Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Halcyon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napoleon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spitfire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Swiftness Direct T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swiftness, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walter Cat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, Aid, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Anderson, Art Messier
Page Views: 512 total, 9/month
Shared By: T.J. Esposito on Mar 11, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

"Local classic"... "Must-do if you're in the area!"... Phrases that don't really apply to this route.

I'm guessing this one doesn't get a lot of traffic, lots of missing or loose holds; probably best to avoid it unless you want a pretty tough day on mostly mediocre rock. If climbing at your limit, bring a bail biner just in case for P2/P5 (There are two old rusted 1/8 quicklinks at the P5 crux, don't use those!)

P1 had a few hundred pounds or so of rotten blocks come off the final moves on 3/10/13, making for either super hard slab traverse (harder than the indicated 5.10) or a pendulum to the left to reach the first belay from the other side. You'll come up directly under rap anchors but skip them and move to the anchors to the left. (Indicated 10a, probably 10 A0+)

P2 is thin, delicate, hard, and sustained. Up and then traverse right on a dike. Hard to french free the crux. (Indicated 11c, probably at least 11d or tricky 11/A0)

P3 is also super sustained with a tricky mini-roof to pull. (Indicated 10d, probably 11a/b)

P4 is pretty sweet, the only pitch that seemed to be mostly intact. Crux just off the belay with some moderate liebacks/gastons, a really good elevator move on good holds, super strenuous high-feet liebacking to a roof that's way easier to pull than it would appear. Eases up a bit to the belay, fun hanging off another dike. (Indicated and probably 12a, can french free if needed)

P5 is a bit gritty and slabby then has an obvious crux with two ways to get past it depending on your strengths. Pretty much blank and you'll be hanging from slopers either way. Also difficult to french free. (Indicated 11a, probably mid 11)

Rapping from the first belay at the end of P5 (at the start of the ramp to the top) takes you down Essential Madness.

Location

Starts up the ramp to the right side of the center wall.

Protection

Quickdraws (dozen or so).

Photos

0 Comments