Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,194 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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This is an excellent and varied pitch. Some face climbing, laybacks, and even some hand crack.

In my opinion, this route rivals Aries and Mourning Star as one of the best(i.e. only) 5.8's at index.


Just left of gorilla my dreams




For a rack, take a set of cams to a #6 friend.

The upper crack is much easier to layback than thrutch. Probably 10a as an offwidth.

Those 2 bolts should be chopped as there are perfect gear placements right next to them. Oct 11, 2006
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
Agreed with the bolts comment. I climbed the upper part as an offwidth and I didn't think it was too bad. Definitely hard for grade (even for index). Jul 15, 2008
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
I think about every pitch on aries is harder. The largest piece I placed was a 4 four friend. Good but not that good. Apr 19, 2009
When I did this route, the anchors had a cordolette left in place that someone had used to rap off- if I'd had a quicklink or a rap ring I'd have donated it to the cause, but wasn't prepared at the time.

If I'd had a wider piece than a #3 C4, I'd have used it at the top where the crack goes from fistjam to off-width. Nov 9, 2009
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
this is a great 5.8 A #5 Camalot is fine for top, but if you are scared of OW a #6 is better. I removed the cordolette when I replaced the old anchor with new SS bolts in 2012. Jul 23, 2013
Fun climb and a good warm up before hopping onto Gorilla My Dreams. The final moves are way easier as a lieback. Bolt comment: I agree that with the common availability of #5 size cams, the upper bolt no longer serves a purpose. The first bolt is next to a crack that is part of a hollow, thin and detaching flake. That flake, used as a hold, is trustworthy as far as I can tell. Used as a point of protection, sketchy. The first bolt is good one to clip. Sep 1, 2013
Brian K
Seattle, WA
Brian K   Seattle, WA
Fantastic route. Varied climbing which includes face, perfect hands, thin hands, fists, liebacking, and some offwidth at the top. Can be wet on the bottom. Only downside is that its harder to get to than other climbing at index and there's not much else at the wall---which also means there are less people. Mar 18, 2019
Hank Thompson
Tacoma, WA
Hank Thompson   Tacoma, WA
this is a great route to hit as you're headed to the midwall, or after you top out GNS. I thought that pulling into the lieback/offwidth was the crux. First bolt is nice as the rock quality there is a little questionable but i agree that the 2nd bolt should probably be chopped given that most index climbers carry a #5 or #6 which protects the offwidth. Mar 18, 2019