Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,153 total · 14/month
Shared By: misterclimberman on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Obvious large flake on the left side of the crag, right next to a gully (descent gully). start up akward offwidth, then traverse right on the flake, and finish up akward, but easy, wide crack.

Protection

large pro for start and end, medium (2 and 3 camalots) for the traverse, and a few smaller cams.

Photos

Ladd

  5.8
Ladd    
  5.8
I didn't do the 5.8 finish, I traversed left and finshed with the 5.easy corner. I was still a good time had by all! Oct 9, 2007
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The start of this route is the crux in my opinion. The offwidth portion takes a nice #3 camalot where you want it so you can save you big gear #3.5+ for the upper easy flake. If you don't have the big gear, you will likely feel comfortable running out the upper easy flake because you can't really fall out of it, you'll see. There's also a piton in there toward the top. There's belay anchors at the top, but you're best off walking off. Mar 6, 2008
presto
Prescott, AZ
  5.7
presto   Prescott, AZ
  5.7
Lots of fun, aesthetic line, and great range of styles in the climbing. Good protection. I agree with Jeremy Steck's comment.

Spoiler beta below:

Crux is at the bottom, use your gear well there. Footwork on the well-featured face keeps the climbing easy. Pin in upper portion can substitute wide gear through the second half. Awkward anchors if TR setup is not well constructed. Mar 6, 2013
Kevin Keith  
 
New anchors at the top of this route make for an easy TR set up thanks to the Prescott Climber's Coalition and the American Safe Climbing Association. KK Aug 4, 2015
Derek Field
California
  5.8
Derek Field   California
  5.8
Beautiful arcing flake, very well protected, a recommended beginner lead. Agreed that the crux is the initial offwidth. Bringing a #5 cam is very helpful for the (easy) ramp section above the lil roof. Sep 28, 2016