Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Wedge

Hiliter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Naked Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Lance and Dane Dougherty, 1968
Page Views: 899 total, 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Redemption is a pretty amazing accomplishment, considering the date of the first ascent. Even today, in sticky shoes, you'll find yourself asking what the heck you're supposed to stand on or hold onto. And with only two bolts, it's sure to keep your complete and utter attention!

Start the route from near the center of the southeast face of the Wedge, climb up and left, clipping the first bolt, then continue across to the left arete and a second bolt just below a small (4") overhang. Once you have ahold of the edge of the arete above that second bolt, the difficulty is over, but you gotta stay heads up to the anchor.

The bolts still have old Leeper hangers and have not been replaced yet, so don't be takin' whippers on this one if you can help it!

Location

Route is the lefthand bolted route on the southeast face of the Wedge.

Protection

Two bolts, two bolt anchor/rap on top.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.9+
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.9+
Tyler,

We were up there on the 30th and I led that variation. I think it is a bit more fun than starting up the middle of the Wedge. Also, I'm pretty sure the rating goes the same as the original route. Either way the beginning is pretty thiinnn. Feb 10, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
We did an alternate start that starts around the corner by a new glue-in and a good sidepull. Make a few moves up and then pull yourself around the corner to the main face. Pretty fun bouldery moves, maybe 10b? Has anybody else done this? There was chalk on the sidepull and I assume this is the reason for the new bolt on the corner. Feb 8, 2010