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Redemption
5.9+,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 20
votes
FA: Lance and Dane Dougherty, 1968
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> Pinnacle Peak
> Wedge
Description
Redemption is a pretty amazing accomplishment, considering the date of the first ascent. Even today, in sticky shoes, you'll find yourself asking what the heck you're supposed to stand on or hold onto. And with only two bolts, it's sure to keep your complete and utter attention!
Start the route from near the center of the southeast face of the Wedge, climb up and left, clipping the first bolt, then continue across to the left arete and a second bolt just below a small (4") overhang. Once you have ahold of the edge of the arete above that second bolt, the difficulty is over, but you gotta stay heads up to the anchor.
The bolts still have old Leeper hangers and have not been replaced yet, so don't be takin' whippers on this one if you can help it!
Location
Route is the lefthand bolted route on the southeast face of the Wedge.
[Hide Photo] On March 20, 2021, The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) replaced the two remaining self-drive bolts on this route with new Stainless Steel 1/2" bolts and Stainless hangers.
[Hide Photo] On March 20, 2021, The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) replaced the two remaining self-drive bolts on this route with new Stainless Steel 1/2" bolts and Stainless hangers.
[Hide Comment] We did an alternate start that starts around the corner by a new glue-in and a good sidepull. Make a few moves up and then pull yourself around the corner to the main face. Pretty fun bouldery moves, maybe 10b? Has anybody else done this? There was chalk on the sidepull and I assume this is the reason for the new bolt on the corner.
Feb 8, 2010
We were up there on the 30th and I led that variation. I think it is a bit more fun than starting up the middle of the Wedge. Also, I'm pretty sure the rating goes the same as the original route. Either way the beginning is pretty thiinnn.
Feb 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] On March 20, 2021, The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) replaced the two remaining self-drive bolts on this route with new Stainless Steel 1/2” bolts and Stainless hangers.
Mar 22, 2021
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Flagstaff, AZ
AZ
We were up there on the 30th and I led that variation. I think it is a bit more fun than starting up the middle of the Wedge. Also, I'm pretty sure the rating goes the same as the original route. Either way the beginning is pretty thiinnn. Feb 10, 2010
Phoenix