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Routes in South Face - Right Side

Baby's Butt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Climb with no Beginning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daley's Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Diddly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faux Pas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fitschen's Folly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orange Peel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pas de Deux T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pas de Deux, Original Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mark Powell and Bob Kamps, January 1967
Page Views: 548 total · 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This full-pitch slab route has a short crux section, and then just one other stretch thatÂ’s harder than 5.8. The crux is at the third bolt.

Protection

5 bolts, fixed pin, plus gear for the belay

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
I tried to pound the anchor in but it wouldn't go, a 70 won't reach the ground anyway.

The climbing is good on this but the crux bolt is sticking out a bit and the abandoned bolt to the left has no hanger on it. Also I thought the line was a bit right of the last two bolts, had to lean over to clip them.

A couple small cams work for the anchor. Nov 11, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
The two-bolt route to the right of this is "Lizard's Leap" and is 5.9, and is worthy. The route to the right of That is "Fitchen's Folly" and is 5.7 and is also worthy...both are 1.5 stars out of four. If you are over here with a bunch of beginners, toss ropes on these to get more climbers on the rock. Lizard's Leap was my first 5.9 "follow," and I fell when I inverted a fingernail prying down i=on one of the edges I'd latched...blood everywhere...taught me a lesson about trimming the nails. I was 15, following Chuck Wilts..he laughed..said he knew what "that" felt like. Mar 29, 2015
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Used several medium cams, a big nut, and nut wires on the bolt with no hangar. Clipped one bolt on the route to the right. There's an unusable rap anchor up left from this route, with the bolts half pulled out. Oct 22, 2012
Bob Gaines
  5.10a
Bob Gaines  
  5.10a
One fixed pin at the start, then I counted 5 bolts, plus 2 off-route bolts (missing hangers) slightly off-route to the left.

Anchor is 2 to 3 inch gear. Jul 8, 2010
Chad F
Costa Mesa, CA
Chad F   Costa Mesa, CA
guidebook says 6, we found 4 plus one with a missing hanger Jun 22, 2010

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