Type: Sport, TR, 130 ft
FA: Bill Nagel and Ron Anderson (1977)
Page Views: 4,243 total · 27/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Feb 19, 2006 with updates from Lon Harter
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Route 14 in photo. The first climb you see as you come out ot the trees from the parking area. Climb the short face to the first bolt and follow the arete to the left. Transition to the face on your right and continue straight up.


8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor at top with chains.


Rick D
Reno, NV
Rick D   Reno, NV
FA: Bill Nagel, Ron Anderson, 77' Mar 24, 2009
Ron Anderson  
retro bolted by the first ascentionist..... originally done clean... Aug 7, 2009
Regarding Deadmans Rappel which on this site some are calling the gash,,,, A rather SERIOUS accident occurred on this climb recently. The large block just up and left of the first bolt was pulled off by a climber off route, resulting in broken arms and an amputated leg.

This block had bee messed with prior to the accident by someone gardening the squaw tea brush around it, which then loosened the block which by pics provided had begun to lean outward. The dirt and rubble holding it in place being washed out by rains and snows. It was the ready to topple off IF someone grabbed it. Which happened and resulted in dire consequence.

My point here is that IF you decides to clean some brush, or around obvious loose blocks which the brush interact with, go ahead and trundle to pos block. Other wise its just another time bomb. That block and brush had been there for at least 37 years that i know of but that gardening made it go from stable to dangerous in a season or two. The route is popular and has seen thousands of ascents. All of which by passed the block well to the left as the route goes. But one errant grab is all it took.. Sep 22, 2013
I pulled a large flake that was behind the block and getting loose this weekend. The route is looking good now. Apr 8, 2014
This is a really stellar 5.7. Even if you climb harder its fun, long, and in the shade on hot days. Sep 15, 2014
Sam Sala
Sam Sala   Denver
Climbed this yesterday with my kid-sis while we're both home for Thanksgiving. Fun route although leading with a first time lead-belayer on numb fingertips made it a bit more interesting than it probably needed to be. Fortunately all worked out and we had a blast. Super positive climbing to solid looking chains up top. Felt like the crux was the movement around the first two bolts.

The large block that came off in 2013 is still in the creek at the base and serves as a gnarly reminder of what can go wrong. There was a guy being helped up to the cars after falling right as we walked across the creek. Ankle was pretty bloodied and he seemed dazed. Best info I could suss out from folks helping him, was he was soloing up to clean the 1st draw and fell. Bounced a few times on his back, head, and shoulders down the blocks to the creek. We must have missed it by just a minute or two. He was walking out under his own power so we didn't offer any further help past asking if they needed anything. They said they were going to get him checked out, and I'm hopeful he's doing alright today. Cheers, wherever you are, man! Nov 26, 2016
Shawn Whitney
Shawn Whitney  
Big flake about 3/4 the way up is feeling a bit sketch/loose. It may only be a matter of time until someone pulls it off. We tried avoiding it as much as possible. Be careful!
Also, left a locking biner on the chains this weekend, please leave it there I will be back for it real soon. Thanks Jul 24, 2017
Hello my name is Ethan I've lived in Reno 15 years. I used to climb with my father when i was a kid. recently a life long friend of mine passed away in a car accident. His passing has sparked the desire to start climbing again. As i work on getting my gear in order I've been reading all the climbing books I can, basically doing the homework. my question is where can i purchase route guides? I called REI and they couldn't refer me to any route guides for Nevada and California. looking at the photos here I noticed a picture of a guide book it just wasn't named. I also noticed that none of the routes here on mountain project have locations? is that to keep the spots secret? i cant find anything on google maps called dinosaur rock. I'm a rookie. Anyway, thank you all for any referals to books. any and all location advise is super appreciated! hope to be out climbing with you all soon! Nov 14, 2018