Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Ron Anderson and Tom Sullivan (1976)
Page Views: 1,248 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: Justin .

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Really good stemming and hand jams. At about the 3/4 mark, start traversing right. Bad protection here, and some face moves.

Location

There are basically two primary dihedrials right next to each other. This is the one on the left. Climb directly in the corner. Use the chains of Big Bang.

Protection

Trad (pro to 1").

Photos

Ron Anderson
  5.10a
Ron Anderson  
  5.10a
FA Ron ANderson Tom Sullivan 1976 named for the shoes i was using at the time,,, PA's.. LOL!!!! Aug 3, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
My partner's and my fave, despite the brevity of length. Cool, facey crack climbing that throws a few sporty moves at you. The top is a bit broken. The last move is piton protected. The piton seemed sound and there's a crack nearby to back it up. Aug 31, 2010
Ron Anderson
  5.10a
Ron Anderson  
  5.10a
hmmmmm the pin has got to go... that was -is a clean route... Sep 6, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
I had wondered about that... Yeah, it's in a horizontal right after the conclusion of the crack and just before the last moves to the anchor. Sep 8, 2010
AWK
5.9 PG13
AWK  
5.9 PG13
The loose rock at the top is gone.. it is still a bit loose near the top and a key jug is gone. Use caution and belay from the side. May 4, 2014
Alex Stackhouse
Reno, Nevada
  5.10a
Alex Stackhouse   Reno, Nevada
  5.10a
The Pin is gone, and good bolts w/ chains are on top now. It's clean Ron :) Nov 29, 2016
RDA
RDA  
Ive seen the new chain anchors on PA corner- and they remove the last few moves, even though the fragile flake has long since been pulled off, there was still moves that could be made to the top of the pillar to the right, and use those anchors.. Sure its now as "handy" as a damm gym route, but that wasnt the way i did the route(1976). So now its a shorter route than it already was and the exciting finish is no longer done..Poor style to add anchors to an established route. I did appreciate whomever removed the fixed pin near the top..Sort of funny to see Jim Donini posting an article titled "Stop comfortizing routes with bolted anchors" on Super topo just recently.. Sep 18, 2018
Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
Lol ole RDA just can’t help himself, still lurkin over at supertopo cause he can’t figure out how to post Sep 19, 2018