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Routes in Dinosaur Rock

5.8 Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Afternoon Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Bang S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borrowed Bolt T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Color Me Gone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deadman's Rappel S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge of Doom S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evolution of Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Hell S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Seam, The S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard King S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nose Bleed T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
P.A. Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron's Nest T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Tom's Traverse T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Tom Sullivan, Bill Nagel and Ron Anderson (1977)
Page Views: 2,309 total · 20/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 1, 2008 with updates from Lon Harter
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Start right under Green Hell and traverse up and right to the prominent bulge/crack. Bring 2" cam to protect before first bolt, otherwise run out with bad fall potential. Climb up crack system, Clip third bolt, and traverse left. These are some fun moves. Finish up on the Left Seam.

Location

Just to the right of Green Hell and The Left Seam.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Jeffrey LaCombe
Sparks, NV
 
Jeffrey LaCombe   Sparks, NV
 
Traversing as described in the route description is shorter and a bit easier, but I think the route begins at the bottom of the crack system and heads up (leftward). It takes a few pieces of pro (or a 5-10' fall). Mar 17, 2009
Ron Anderson  
 
Your correct, color me gone begins near the bottom toe of the wall its on, and angles upward left to the mini alcove. THen up past three independant blts to the finsih f left seam with four more bolts to 0anchors. Ron. Sep 6, 2010
climbed this route today. twice.
5.9 seems a bit to generous. probably more like 5.8.
great route.
first time i placed some gear at the bottom, then clipped the bolts the rest of the way.
but then i realised that the whole route can be climbed on gear. the route eats gear the whole way up, not sure why it was bolted (when the first 15 feet need to be protected with gear ???).
either way, gear or bolts, its a great route. May 21, 2014
Lon Harter
Reno
 
Lon Harter   Reno
 
One of the best routes around the local area to teaching the trad climbing craft. This route offers chicken head, cracks, edging and tosses a alcove to climb out of. The granite although decaying is supper grippe and offers excellent hook up for your feet. This was one of my favorite places to take new climbers as it exposed them to questionable alpine quality rock (decomposing) and offered an assortment of choices for placing gear and move sequences. May 21, 2018

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