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Routes in Club Paradiso / The Actual Cave

100 % Beef S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Acid Rock S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bikini Girls with turbo drills S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cyanide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Giant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they are not after you. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lush S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Big S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Positive Vibrations S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Spartacus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trappline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Brian Burdo 1994
Page Views: 661 total · 4/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the back right corner of the cave. Go up the verical right wall on big holds until you hit the roof. Clip the first roof draw and take a little rest. When your ready shoot left on a long shelf. Either campus across or toe hook up where your hands are. You can also easily nab a few heel toe cams when you need to clip. Finish the traverse and then make one big move up and then you are clipping the anchors.

Protection

Bolted with chains at the anchor. Due to the steep and traversing nature of the route you have to have someone climb it to clean it.

Photos

Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
5.11c
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
5.11c
You can continue past the first anchor to a second anchor about 20 feet higher. This is called Mr. Big (5.12-). Oct 24, 2006
Brian Burdo did the bolting and FA of this @ 1994. Oct 22, 2011
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Other interesting history to add to description: this was the first route equipped at X38 by Bryan, and the first in general. Nov 3, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Regarding Eric's comment... Yes, steel draws are a great convenience, and safer. But, they cost at least $10 a draw, (if you have a pro deal). Expecting someone (most people tend to point at the developer) to buy them and put them on the route is rather frustrating for those of us that develop routes like these. Maybe consider ordering the draws yourself, and placing them on the route as your contribution to a good route? May 12, 2015

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