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Routes in Barney Rumble Tower

Raven's Delight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bego Gerhart, Jeff Widen, Tony Valdes, Don Burke 28 Nov. 1986
Page Views: 2,951 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Feb 17, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route follows a crack/corner system on the east side of the tower.
Pitch 1- Climb the corner via stemming and jamming (hands) then make a tricky traverse left on poor rock to a belay below the second pitch corner. 5.9
Pitch 2- Climb a short right facing corner (tricky) to the summit. 5.9+

Descent- Scramble down to anchors at the top of the north face and make one double rope rappel to the ground.

Protection

Two sets of cams and some TCU's, maybe stoppers.
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A single 60m will get you down from steel anchors, no tat on this one. If you bring a couple of extra cams in the .5-#1 Camalot sizes (maybe 3X .5 and .75 and 4X #1 total) you could do this in one pitch with proper runner use and skip the intermediate belay. Nov 10, 2015
Bring at least 3 #1 C4s. 1st pitch anchor has one bolt next to crack that will take a .75 in the right spot or #1. One 70 m rope rap from summit. Apr 29, 2013
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
FYI. This tower was named for Widen's farting on the FA.... Jul 30, 2009
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.9+
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.9+
To approach with the least hassle and poison ivy start from the pull off just up river from the tower. Float across the river and pull off under a dry waterfall. From there walk and crawl down river up against the cliff wall until you reach a large boulder fall that allows you to gain some elevation. Walk to the top right of the boulders as going up and rope up or not for one move of 5.7. There were two pieces of webbing, one with a rap rig located above the boulder field for your descent. The webbing could use some replacing for any who want to do a good deed. We were able to paddle a ducky up river and then across back to our car. Great small tower!! Sep 15, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Even though this tower is approached from the River Road, I believe it is located in Arches Nat. Park. Novel approach with the boat;....we had quit a group.... 4 climbers and 2 "touristas..".....so we had a big raft. The climbing was fairly good too;....surprisingly good;....admit it;...many of these towers are just crumbling piles of choss;.......this one actually had some good climbing on sections of good rock!....Our team was Dave Evans, Margy Floyd, Dana Adler, and Derrick Reinig in March of 1996. After the climb, we floated all the way down to our campsite near Negro Bill Canyon. Big fun! It's tough to get all excited about a climb with the word "rubble" in the climb's name.......but this climb is worthy.... Apr 30, 2007