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Routes in Rabbit Rock -West

A-rester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coyote Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dance to the Music S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rio S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,293 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dave Clawson on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Coyote Corner is not located on the upper west face of Rabbit Rock up the hill and north a good distance from the popular Red Tail(11a) in a large left facing corner. Follow the trail around the north end of Parking Lot Rock. The large upper west face of Rabbit rock is across from the north end of the east face of Parking Lot Rock. The base of the climb can be identified by locating some large detached blocks. The route starts at the right edge of these blocks and continues up the vegetated dihedral. From a distance this looks like a classic corner. Unfortunately it isn't; but it is fun to climb anyway.

The standard descent for the north end of the west face of Rabbit Rock is a rappel from chains on the north end; or to scramble down the north end. We did not do this. We located some chains just slightly to the south(right) and down the face about 15 feet from the top of the climb. A 60m rope made it safely down from these chains.

Protection

A variety of gear, trad anchor

Photos

SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
Be careful on the pull if you rap from the chains to the right, as the block at the start will eat the rope. Go down and right to pull. Jun 7, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
You can chimney or stem this route to the top. Both ways are fun! I would build a trad anchor at the top, belay your second up, then walk down 15ft to the climber's right and rap off the anchors above the sport route. Tie knots in the end!! Mar 30, 2015
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
A fun line with good pro. Shady all morning. Sep 17, 2012
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Seems like there is some confusion between this route and No Satisfaction. I have added that route to help alleviate further confusion. Jul 11, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8
Awesome line, perfect to end the day of just cruise up something mellow. I don't know which part of it could be described as a chimney though...
You can belay off the anchors of the face to the right if you don't protect the last bit. Nov 30, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
It is okay for a chimney and a warm-up, but I don't know how it got 1 star (out of 3) in the guidebook. I agree with the description that it "appears to be classic" from a distance, but it is not really that great up close and personal. Aug 27, 2009
Seems to me like a classic. Great line, great climb. Jul 10, 2008