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Routes in Rabbit Rock -West

A-rester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coyote Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dance to the Music S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rio S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Dan Sperlock
Page Views: 186 total, 4/month
Shared By: Shelton Hatfield on May 20, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Tell me about it

This thing is burly. A working man's 5.10

Start off a knobby ramp, following features up and left. Negotiate a bit of questionable rock until the crack system begins to trend right, heading up through a STEEP bulge. Summon your inner hardman as you battle the flaring jams, eventually pulling out a small roof. The bolted anchors I had seen notated in a guidebook were MIA, but it's easy enough to take this one to the house. Up top, natural anchor opportunities abound.

Walk and downclimb to the opposite side of the formation to rappel from the bolted anchors on top of "Roadkill". A single 80m rope got us down, but a 70m would LIKELY do it. Alternately, two shorter rappels can be made off the north side of the formation.

This route would be 3/4 stars if it weren't for a bit of crumbly rock, although this added little if any danger to the route as both the rock and gear are bomber through the crux. Enjoy

Help me find it

This route goes out the right of the two major roofs on Rabbit Rock's West face.

It can be approached by heading around the north side of Parking Lot Rock, heading twoards Buzzard's Perch and then cutting right to move along the base of Rabbit Rock.

Tell me what to bring

Nuts and Cams to 4" useful


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