Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,202 total · 33/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Shadowfax is the first climb you come to as you reach Middle Earth heading up from the south start of the climbers loop trail. Shadow Fax is a hand crack that widens to slightly off width as you get near the top. The crux comes near the bottom of the climb where the crack moves slightly right with insecure feet (look to the small cracks to your right for help). The climbing is excellent and is good practice to improve your crack skills. The climb can be top roped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambling up to the anchor. The crack is easily protectable and should be led.


.5 to # 3 (a #4 can be used just don't admitt it to anybody). Bolt anchor and rap rings at top of climb.
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
A good clean crack. The crux is awkward rather than hard. Too bad it's not longer. Feb 23, 2006
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
There just is very little reason to walk past this climb. Its a great warm up for harder cracks in the area. Dec 10, 2010
San Diego, CA
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
As I understand it, the route has two starts. The direct start has been rated 5.9 while the lieback start to the right considered 5.8. The lieback start is significantly easier but the protection could be tricky if you dont place a piece, downclimb a step or two and then start. I recommend the direct start :) Jun 23, 2011
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
I'd say it's fair to call the direct start a 5.9. Haven't tried the layback method. Jun 20, 2014
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
For me, the start fits my hands perfect and is not the crux. The crux imo is where the crack widens towards the top and it is hard to get both feet in the crack due to the angle. It definitely felt harder than the very nice 5.8, Craig's Crack. Jul 25, 2016