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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,715 total, 33/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Shadowfax is the first climb you come to as you reach Middle Earth heading up from the south start of the climbers loop trail. Shadow Fax is a hand crack that widens to slightly off width as you get near the top. The crux comes near the bottom of the climb where the crack moves slightly right with insecure feet (look to the small cracks to your right for help). The climbing is excellent and is good practice to improve your crack skills. The climb can be top roped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambling up to the anchor. The crack is easily protectable and should be led.

Protection

.5 to # 3 (a #4 can be used just don't admitt it to anybody). Bolt anchor and rap rings at top of climb.
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
  5.9-
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
  5.9-
For me, the start fits my hands perfect and is not the crux. The crux imo is where the crack widens towards the top and it is hard to get both feet in the crack due to the angle. It definitely felt harder than the very nice 5.8, Craig's Crack. Jul 25, 2016
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.9+
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.9+
I'd say it's fair to call the direct start a 5.9. Haven't tried the layback method. Jun 20, 2014
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.8
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.8
As I understand it, the route has two starts. The direct start has been rated 5.9 while the lieback start to the right considered 5.8. The lieback start is significantly easier but the protection could be tricky if you dont place a piece, downclimb a step or two and then start. I recommend the direct start :) Jun 23, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
There just is very little reason to walk past this climb. Its a great warm up for harder cracks in the area. Dec 10, 2010
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8
A good clean crack. The crux is awkward rather than hard. Too bad it's not longer. Feb 23, 2006