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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: John Vawter
Page Views: 1,586 total · 10/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Easy crack climbing on a right facing dihedral abruptly halts at a roof. Pull the roof and continue up the face following an ever widening flake.

Protection

Standard rack. Gear anchor.

Photos

david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
To reach this climb before Shadowfax go right on faint climbers trail. You will see roof and climb 40 feet up the trail. This climb starts out straight forward. However, above the roof the protection is marginal and the fall potential is high. Anchor is best at the back of finish ledge 6 feet beyond end of climb. Climb finishes with fun offwidth. This is a good Mission Gorge climb if you are comfortable at the grade. Feb 9, 2006
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Been to the Gorge probably 40 times and this was the first time I ever ventured to the far lower-right of Middle Earth. This climb requires a somewhat complex and convoluted TR anchor if you don;t want a risky lead. Despite that, the climb is great. Loved the roof pull and tricky off-hands at the top. Mar 9, 2015

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