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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 25 ft
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 4,239 total · 27/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006 with updates from Connor Mills
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Easy Rider is the first bolted climb you see after hiking up the Climber's Loop trail from the South kiosk. Climb up and left from the base of the rock past three bolts to a ledge. Traverse right then up again to the anchor.

Protection

Four (4) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. A TR may be set up by accessing the anchor from the back side of the rock.

Photos

Marc Kajut
San Diego, CA
  5.7
Marc Kajut   San Diego, CA  
  5.7
This route is probably one of the most popular climbs in Mission Gorge. It's very well protected and is a great "first lead of the day". The crux move is after the third bolt at the route's steepest section. Most climbers transition left, avoiding a difficult mantle move, then move back right once gaining the ledge. Be careful downclimbing from the anchor on the backside of the formation if leading this route. Feb 12, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is a good climb but real slippery! It is unfortunate that it is so easy to bail to the ledges on the left to avoid the crux. Jan 27, 2008
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.7
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.7
Just climbed this one again after a few years. My partner (new leader) bailed after the 2nd bolt. It's no gimme at 5.7, and the big ledges and bad landing put you in the no-fall zone for much of the climb. Jun 16, 2013
Mike Stanley  
 
The reaches are very long for 5.7
It seems that traversing left is the only way to keep it 5.7
Some fun moves from a right hand pinch. Sep 4, 2013
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
I found this route to be quite fun with good exposure for a short sport climb. Good eye. Here are some long arm pics of me solo leading this gem..






Jul 28, 2015
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.7
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
  5.7
I think it should remain 5.7 for the direct bolt line. It's not hard, it's just heady in that section. I'd say just know your belayer and go for the direct! Take your time and find your feet, breath, and trust in your climbing ability. Oct 23, 2016

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