Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: David Rubine, 1986
Page Views: 4,486 total · 28/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Difficult thin face climbing past one bolt eases to a sloping ledge. Continue past another bolt on easier face moves to reach the anchor.

Protection

Two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. The anchor may be reached to set up a TR from the back side of the climb.

Photos

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.11b
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.11b
Seemed impossible at first. Once the sequence is figured out this climb goes solid, I swear it. Try going straight up the orange rock as opposed to from the left as the climber in the photo for a more direct line. Very fun climb but tough to figure out.
EDIT - I just upped my stars for this climb. Every move requires thought and many are equally difficult. Rock is solid albeit slippery. One of my favorites at Mission Gorge. Apr 30, 2006
Sebastian
Irvine
 
Sebastian   Irvine
 
Very nice climb, hard but great.

Attention in the Upper Part when you stand over the ledge, the big grip (the only one) is a little loose. So take care with the force on it.

Have fun. Jan 29, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Definitely makes this rock instantly classic for me, between shadowfax and this face climb... to think I thought I would never tackle both. Mar 5, 2010
What's the beta for getting up to the ledge once you are in that matched hand position of the guy in picture 2? Got up to that move reasonably successfully but failed miserably trying to mantel onto the ledge. Sep 5, 2011
bryan ferris
  5.11b
bryan ferris  
  5.11b
keels I'm the guy in pic 3. the move involves allot of power and nerves of steel. you need to mantel on to where your hands are. look for a right foot once you start to pull your feet up. it feels good to finally stand on the ledge and clip bolt two. Dec 28, 2011
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
If you find the right mantle sequence for your height, the mantle ends up feeling physically easier than the moves leading up to it. Mar 11, 2013
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
My wife and I stopped by here to get a little climbing in on Saturday. I found both this route and Easy Rider to be very greasy after baking in the sun all day. I couldn't stick the sloping edge with the left hand, but it was nice to take some falls. Nice area to climb so close to the city. May 20, 2014
Keith Forest
  5.11b/c PG13
Keith Forest  
  5.11b/c PG13
FA was done by David Rubine not Rabine. It was put up around 1986. Dec 24, 2015
I tried to lead the route onsite and did not feel comfortable with the fall potential on the mantle. I popped off a few times after down climbing a move. A lead fall from the mantle would surely land you on the deck. Jan 20, 2016