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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: David Rubine, 1986
Page Views: 4,133 total, 29/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Difficult thin face climbing past one bolt eases to a sloping ledge. Continue past another bolt on easier face moves to reach the anchor.

Protection

Two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. The anchor may be reached to set up a TR from the back side of the climb.
I tried to lead the route onsite and did not feel comfortable with the fall potential on the mantle. I popped off a few times after down climbing a move. A lead fall from the mantle would surely land you on the deck. Jan 20, 2016
Keith Forest
  5.11b/c PG13
Keith Forest  
  5.11b/c PG13
FA was done by David Rubine not Rabine. It was put up around 1986. Dec 24, 2015
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
My wife and I stopped by here to get a little climbing in on Saturday. I found both this route and Easy Rider to be very greasy after baking in the sun all day. I couldn't stick the sloping edge with the left hand, but it was nice to take some falls. Nice area to climb so close to the city. May 20, 2014
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
If you find the right mantle sequence for your height, the mantle ends up feeling physically easier than the moves leading up to it. Mar 11, 2013
bryan ferris
  5.11b
bryan ferris  
  5.11b
keels I'm the guy in pic 3. the move involves allot of power and nerves of steel. you need to mantel on to where your hands are. look for a right foot once you start to pull your feet up. it feels good to finally stand on the ledge and clip bolt two. Dec 28, 2011
What's the beta for getting up to the ledge once you are in that matched hand position of the guy in picture 2? Got up to that move reasonably successfully but failed miserably trying to mantel onto the ledge. Sep 5, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Definitely makes this rock instantly classic for me, between shadowfax and this face climb... to think I thought I would never tackle both. Mar 5, 2010
Sebastian
Irvine
 
Sebastian   Irvine
 
Very nice climb, hard but great.

Attention in the Upper Part when you stand over the ledge, the big grip (the only one) is a little loose. So take care with the force on it.

Have fun. Jan 29, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.11b
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.11b
Seemed impossible at first. Once the sequence is figured out this climb goes solid, I swear it. Try going straight up the orange rock as opposed to from the left as the climber in the photo for a more direct line. Very fun climb but tough to figure out.
EDIT - I just upped my stars for this climb. Every move requires thought and many are equally difficult. Rock is solid albeit slippery. One of my favorites at Mission Gorge. Apr 30, 2006