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Routes in The Main Cliffs
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Another Mindless Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beached Whale Impersonation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bear Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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North Face Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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North Sneak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pillars of Frenzy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Swab The Deck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Whales Leave The Lats At Home S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 711 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Sep 9, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Details
Details
Detailed closure information can be found by visiting OSMP's Interactive Wildlife Closure map at osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This may be the first bomb route I've submitted. We were looking for a nice mellow climb to end the day and chose this one, since it looked decent from the ground. Turns out there's about 15' of nice and pretty exciting hand crack, but the start more than makes up for it, and otherwise the climbing is moderate in difficulty and interest.
Approach: See Rossiter or the instructions on this site for getting to The Main Cliffs. The northernmost part of the west face is a steep gray face capped by a huge red overhang. The right edge of this face is a left facing corner, Guano Master, supposedly 5.7, but I don't know..., that ascends towards the right edge of the roof. Right of this corner is a narrow pillar that starts a ways up with several bolts. That's Pillars of Frenzy 10d. More or less directly below this is a short gray slot with some lichen leading to a tiny pine tree. Above that is some funky "rock" and then a right facing corner leading to an obvious hand crack in green rock.
The climb: Luke was complaining a lot on the climbing above the initial slot. Said it was really grungy, loose, no gear and hard. After a while I decided to say nothing--it looked easy to me. But following I was pretty gripped and almost fell off. There's a thick powder on the rock, and all the holds sound hollow as if full of air. Any gear you could get would be useless. And it's steep and non-trivial climbing, perhaps because of the effort to not pull hard on anything. So this section really sucks. At the top of this funky bulging section you finally get some gear, and soon after that the rock quality improves. Continue up the right facing corner to a roof at the base of the hand crack. Step left to a ledge, and make an interesting move to get past the overhang and into the crack. Several footholds keep the steep perfect-hands crack at only 5.8. Above there's a squeeze chimney which you might choose to climb. We climbed a right angling thin crack just right of the chimney. Traverse left to the bolt anchors and, after backing up the webbing, rap with two ropes to the ground.
Approach: See Rossiter or the instructions on this site for getting to The Main Cliffs. The northernmost part of the west face is a steep gray face capped by a huge red overhang. The right edge of this face is a left facing corner, Guano Master, supposedly 5.7, but I don't know..., that ascends towards the right edge of the roof. Right of this corner is a narrow pillar that starts a ways up with several bolts. That's Pillars of Frenzy 10d. More or less directly below this is a short gray slot with some lichen leading to a tiny pine tree. Above that is some funky "rock" and then a right facing corner leading to an obvious hand crack in green rock.
The climb: Luke was complaining a lot on the climbing above the initial slot. Said it was really grungy, loose, no gear and hard. After a while I decided to say nothing--it looked easy to me. But following I was pretty gripped and almost fell off. There's a thick powder on the rock, and all the holds sound hollow as if full of air. Any gear you could get would be useless. And it's steep and non-trivial climbing, perhaps because of the effort to not pull hard on anything. So this section really sucks. At the top of this funky bulging section you finally get some gear, and soon after that the rock quality improves. Continue up the right facing corner to a roof at the base of the hand crack. Step left to a ledge, and make an interesting move to get past the overhang and into the crack. Several footholds keep the steep perfect-hands crack at only 5.8. Above there's a squeeze chimney which you might choose to climb. We climbed a right angling thin crack just right of the chimney. Traverse left to the bolt anchors and, after backing up the webbing, rap with two ropes to the ground.
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