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Routes in The Main Cliffs

Green Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Face Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
North Sneak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Swab The Deck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whales Leave The Lats At Home S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: perhaps Gerry Roach?
Page Views: 251 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a pleasant climb on the upper half and potentially pleasant on the lower half, depending on the route taken. Choose wisely for the best rock. The second pitch is a mellow romp with a spectacular position.

P1: start at the base, just North of the obvious summit block of the South Peak of Green Mt. (AKA: Main Crag of the Sacred Cliffs). Climb up perhaps 25 meters, picking a line with the easiest moves and best stone. It is perhaps 5.4. Arrive at a good ledge near a notch to the East Face.

P2: scramble up and left (East) along the North face of this summit block, perhaps even deciding to use the 5.7 jamcrack to climb up and get onto the NE arete, or staying with flakes and slopers just left and above this for a 5.4 way. Get onto the ridge, and follow the crack and slab to the true summit.

Location

The first pitch of this route ascends one of 2 steep (vertical) gullies left of the North end of the true South summit of Green Mountain. The second works left (East) onto the North East Arete of the summit ridge, then up for 100'+ to the true summit and a spectacular 360' view.

Protection

A standard light rack, or solo. If you roped up for this and do not wish to down-climb the route, there are some 2-bolt anchors (but no slings on the hangers) that you will pass above Poultry in Motion and North Face Crack. You can improvise a rap from there.

Photos

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