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Routes in Ledge One

Into the Mystic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystical Melange S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom Dennis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Sean Gallup, Richard Rossiter, Gino Gornnert, 2001.
Page Views: 307 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start about 15 feet left of Into The Mystic at a hand crack in a left-facing corner. Climb the crack, and a narrower crack above, to a ledge at the base of the final slab. Continuing straight up looked unappealing. I placed marginal blue and black Aliens and looked at the lichen-covered, runout seam up the slab and opted to traverse right and finish with the last two bolts on Into The Mystic. Continue to the main ledge and belay at the 2-bolt anchor atop Into The Mystic.

The route is 95 feet long; rappel back to the start with a 60m rope.

This route gets a bomb rating because there just isn't enough good climbing on it. The lower crack is OK, but the upper slab doesn't look worth the trouble.

Protection

Finger and hand-sized pro for the lower crack; small Aliens for the upper slab. 2-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Into The Mystic.

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