Type: TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 678 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a little stiffie tucked in the gully between Der Freischutz and The Hand. It is located on the shady N face of the Dwarf. Sadly, this was formerly a sport climb that received the chop (for whatever reason) but now is best done as a TR.

Ascend the gully SW from the SW corner of Der Zerkle off the Mallory Cave Trail. If you reached Back in Slacks/Power Bulge, you've gone too far. Beware of poison ivy.

You can easily scramble up the W side of this rock and set up the TR.

This little problem packs a punch for virtually every move. Move in from the R on a traverse. Keep your feet low. Use body tension, side pulls, angled underclings, and pebble pinches to traverse all of perhaps 8 feet. Then, work up using good foot technique on slightly overhanging rock to gain a horn of sorts. A few holds on the L side of this horn help you to gain the top. Quite a punch. Onsight this one and you're a solid 5.11 climber. Not me.

Protection Suggest change

There are at least 3 remnants of bolts left in the rock. There appears to be a hole low. There are 2 ring bolts on top.

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