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Routes in Ice Box (later renamed by some ... Jurassic Park)

CC Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crichton's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Iteration S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake-O-Saurus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Get Up That Tree T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyer on the Toilet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lung T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mud in Your Eye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prologue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Recombination Mutation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rowdy Joe Bad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Second Iteration S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slot-A-Saurus aka Anatomy Lesson T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxtaposition T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Velociraptor's Revenge T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 5, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This gem isn't in the Heel and Toe guidebook, but I found the name and rating on a website somewhere, so it must be true.

Just right of Sore-O-Pod is a line of bolts that angles left up a slab. The first move is a gymnastic roof move off the deck. After that, climb 50 or so feet of nice 5.9 and easy 10 slab. A hard move just after the last bolt is by far and away the crux - awfully hard for 5.10. After pulling the crux, move left along the ledge and finish on Sore-O-Pod.

Great rock, great protection, and fun climbing make for a rare Vedauwoo sport route.

Protection

Draws, a few pieces of small to medium gear for the easu last 10 feet and the anchor.

Photos

Jeff S
UT
  5.10c/d
Jeff S   UT
  5.10c/d
I give the crux a .10c/d rating. When compared to Sketchy Palsy I find it a bit more difficult, because the move requires some thinking and some good flexibility. Whereas Sketchy Palsy, if I remember correctly, requires some serious cranking through a longer crux. Either way they are both hard on the tips and I left both climbs with blood oozing out of them.
Also, if you want to compare this to Hooker, 2nd Iteration is more difficult in my opinion too. Hooker maybe a bit soft.
I also believe the crux move is a bit unnatural given the obtainable crack just to the left of it.
Great climb, well protected and easily lead. May 21, 2010
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10c
The last move is not to bad, probably only 10c unless you're short. Jul 21, 2008
Contrived last move - the crux bolt is half an armspan from a bomber hand crack on a well established natural line. Such bolting should be avoided in the future. Sep 19, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10d
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10d
I found the last move to be very, very bizarre, but if done properly, in the 10d to 11a range. Apr 22, 2005
John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
John Kelley   Sedona, AZ
Nice route, well bolted, I found the last move to be harder than 10d. Nov 4, 2004
Chad Bowman
  5.10d
Chad Bowman  
  5.10d
Great climb, dyno start to great face climbing. The crux is the finish, 10c/d, but no harder than that. The last move I dyno'ed to the sloping face (I shredded a sweatshirt a bit). Not a bad climb, pretty new too! Be careful if you set a TR for the pendulum effect. Jun 25, 2004
Brian Weinstein  
  5.8
A lot more mellow then posted, except for the last move if you avoid the Sore-o-pod crack. Very well protected and good fun. Mar 25, 2004
The only way to keep this in the 10 range is to move left and finish up Sore-a-pod. I managed after, several hangs, to forge it straight up the final headwall without using any of the crack to keep it "clean"and repeated it for the redpoint but it's way hard that way, don't even want to venture a guess at a grade, at least 11d or better. Feb 1, 2004
I didn't see a move up from the last bolt, so went left into the Sore-a-pod crack and finished with a couple of good hand jam moves. This variation puts the route at 10a and makes for a very pleasant moderate climb. We belayed from a long rope anchor we'd set up for top-roping 1st Iteration, which meant that the belayer could take good photos of the climb. The start is a challenge for shorter people. Aug 19, 2002