Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 3,041 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This is perhaps the cleanest, prettiest line on the cliff, and is located just right of Lichen Lung. It is stiffest right of the ground through slippery finger locks and layaways. The crack gradually widens from fingers, thin hands to solid hands before becoming a little flared at a shelf. Rest here before punching through the last section of flared hands to fists.


Standard rack up to 3". Doubles of #0.75, #1, and #2 Camalots are nice.


Large offset Friends help well in flared groove, regular cams stick out like fishing lures! Aug 28, 2003
This is one of the best lines in Vedauwoo. It is also rated on the easy side. The crux is right at the beginning and reminescent of the opening to Friday the 13th. The top is flared and difficult to protect, but very secure. It is really no problem to just run it to the top if you are confident in your skills. Sep 3, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
The flare at the top is safely protected with normal Camalots. It's not quite as hard as its neighbor, Lichen Lung. Apr 27, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
A must-do if you're in this area. Soft for the grade. If you're looking to on-sight .11b at the 'Voo, this is probably the one. Apr 18, 2005
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
One of the bolts at the top of this climb wiggles. Oct 5, 2007
Does anyone know if this "wiggling" bolt issue has been dealt with? Is the climb safe? I am planning to come out in August, and I don't want this to ruin my trip. Jul 1, 2009
EldoFiend   WY
Lots of wiggling bolts at Vedauwoo. I'd stay away. Jul 2, 2009
Thanks Eldofiend! Maybe we can discuss the intricies of technical rock climbing when I arrive. You can show me how to use those gears that you clip your rope to. Please pm me! Jul 6, 2009
Chris Sheridan
Boulder, CO
Chris Sheridan   Boulder, CO
As of 8/16/09, the bolts at the top of the route are in fine working order. They aren't rap bolts though, and there are no quick links. We walked over to the left and rapped of just one of the two bolts on top of Lichen Lung as only one of those had a quick link. This worked just fine, but this area would be a lot nicer if someone brought up 7 or so quick links sometime (4 for Mud, 3 more for Lichen). Aug 16, 2009
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
The bolts on this route are still in fine working order. Great route and a must do in climbing in the area. Jun 16, 2013