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Routes in Ice Box (later renamed by some ... Jurassic Park)

CC Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crichton's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Iteration S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake-O-Saurus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Get Up That Tree T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyer on the Toilet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lung T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mud in Your Eye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prologue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Recombination Mutation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rowdy Joe Bad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Second Iteration S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slot-A-Saurus aka Anatomy Lesson T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxtaposition T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Velociraptor's Revenge T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli, Wake Griffith, Jen Hanft
Page Views: 827 total, 5/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jul 18, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This short, deceptive slab is located immediately to the right of Get up that Tree.

One of our party jumped on this climb (which is not listed in Heel & Toe) thinking it was going to be an easy 5.8 or 5.9 romp up the slab. Not to be.

The climbing is easy up to the 2nd bolt, where a sequence of very difficult slab and edging moves marks the crux. The hardest move uses a sharp pinch flake that is not long for this world. This climb could warrant an 'S' rating for the 5.9/10 mantle that comes at the end of the crux sequence getting to the 3rd bolt... blowing it here could result in a hard fall onto the lower angled part of the slab below.

We thought this climb was at least 11a, and probably more like 11b.

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
I preinspected clipping stances on rappel, and they were all fine for my 5'7" self. I put a locker on each bolt, and it seemed intelligently bolted to me (although I had some concern doing the mantel below 3rd bolt, I don't *think* it was dangerous). Hard for me to say if anything has broken, but the crux edges were thin and seemed friable, and even though there was just one crux sequence, seemed solid 11 or a little harder to me. Jun 23, 2014
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
Hanft has no "p". I usually don't correct spelling, but it's my wife, for God's sake; I gotta stand up for something. Sep 18, 2010
Yes, the climb is Rowdy Joe Bad- named after Bob Scarpelli's pitbull after he intimidated a group from Boulder at the base of the crag. Think we called it an 11b and is not that serious if you have a long ape index for clippin the crux bolt, shorter people would have to make an exposed 5.9 move. FA was me and Bob as well as Jen Hanft. Jan 15, 2006
Joe Collins  
 
I checked out the vedauwoo.org website which lists this climb as "Rowdy Joe Bad" and grades it 5.11c. Jul 21, 2003