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Routes in Sunset Flatironette

Disinclination T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pack Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route 70 foot route climbs the severely overhanging West face at the only possible weakness on the wall. It follows a slot/dihedral that starts some 30 feet south of the North West corner of the rock.

The start is best reached by following the trail between the First and Second all the way up and skirting around the North side of the Sunset Flatiron. It is a nice extra credit after completing routes on either of the First or Second Flatirons.

Start at the base of the slot and climb past three cruxes/bulges. Each requoring different technique. The route protect very well. Once you reach the ridge scramble 10 feet North (left) to the summit.

Descent - downclimb East to easier territory and eventually onto the trail.

You can see the Sunset Flatironette on the picture just left of the first. This is a view from the Third.

Protection

Standard rack, #3 Camalot will come in handy.

Photos

Long Ranger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Long Ranger   Boulder, Colorado
 
Tom's right, there is a loose block:



It's manageable though, as you would start on the S. side of that pyramid block just below it, and traverse N. to gain easy access to the slot, using the top of the pyramid black for your hands.

I'd give this route a start just for uniqueness in the area and as an interesting way to gain the summit of the Flatironette, when linking formations. From the top, you can then downclimb Chasing the Sun. Mar 27, 2017
Long Ranger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Long Ranger   Boulder, Colorado
 
I climbed this last week but didn't notice a loose block. Tom: where are you finding it, exactly? Mar 21, 2017
Tom Fitzgerald
Denver, CO
  5.5
Tom Fitzgerald   Denver, CO
  5.5
A couple moves off the ground, what was once a chockstone is now a death block. If it were me, I would not trust the big wobbly chockstone as a hold anymore. I would not want to be the poor soul that pulled on that thing and sent it flying.

Honestly, there are just so many better routes all around in the Flatirons that it's probably best to avoid this one until the death block is gone.

But hey, if you want to squeeze through some animal scat for maybe one interesting climbing move, I won't stop ya. Mar 20, 2017
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.6
This makes an all right warm up climb and easy access to Disinclination if you want to setup a top rope. There is some loose stuff and we found a couple small cams handy and did not need a #3. Aug 5, 2010