Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,123 total · 15/month
Shared By: Guy H. on May 4, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Roach lists this climb as a "F5" Flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be downclimbed.

From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.

P1. Start 10 feet uphill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left, and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch (5.3, ~180 feet).

P2. The crux pitch. Downclimb the notch, and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right-leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to downclimb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete (exciting F5, ~100 feet).

P3. Downclimb into a notch, and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag (~100 feet).

P4. Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180 feet).

P5. Tag the summit... (~50 feet).

Descent: downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron (F3).

Protection Suggest change

Rack to a #3 Camalot, small TCUs are helpful.

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