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Routes in McInnis Canyons

Cowboy Hat, The A1
Devil's Disciple I T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Devil's Disciple II T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Little Bighorn A1
Phantom Spire C1+
Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson, Wilson Goodrich
Page Views: 938 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is in Kodel's Canyon. This can be a bit challenging to find. This is west of Fruita Canyon and west of the West end of Rim Rock Drive. From Desert Rock III, E. Bjornstad writes "Exit 19 off I-70, go south, drive across the Colorado River, turn right on King's View Dr. At the turn, a sign reads "Horse Thief Canyon State Wildlife Area." Approximately 0.5 mi take the first left turn, dirt road. Here there is a change. Go to the fenced limit. Park. Apparently, one used to be able to drive all the way to the canyon mouth. Hike up the canyon 45-60 minutes, starting in the wash. This is beautiful country. There is a window in the rock high and right from you. You will have to cross a drainage or two along the way. The Little Bighorn Pinnacle makes a good visual landmark. Behind this pinnacle on the right lies the buttress with Split Decision.

Find a crack angling to the top of the buttress. This is sandy, you may consider protective eyewear. I just had sunglasses and received bilateral corneal abrasions on this climb.

Pitch 1: lieback a flake, rest, find a thin crack through a roof (allegedly the 1st pitch crux). Move right past 1 bolt (seemed intimidating) and then up past 3 pins and up to a semi-hanging belay in a pod of sorts. #1 1/2, 2 #2 Friends useful for belay.

Pitch 2: follow crack up to a steep bit. Lieback strenuously to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. (This bit seemed hard for 10a).

Pitch 3: follow crack past a pin and face climb past 3 drilled pins. Note, some of the holds on this pitch may have broken off, which may have changed the rating.

Rap the route. From the top of the 2nd pitch, you can rap to the ground with 60m ropes.

Protection

Double cams with extra #2, #2 1/2, #3 Friends. 1 #4 Friend and 1 #4 Camalot useful. 60m ropes.

Photos

Kurt Aronow
Eldorado Springs, CO
Kurt Aronow   Eldorado Springs, CO
The first pitch is a little loose, but very good. The second pitch is very similar to "Blind Faith" (5.10a) in Eldorado Canyon except more with fingers; this pitch has excellent quality. The third pitch is highly loose (helmet required for second). The third pitch appears to be missing some key handholds half-way up that make one section appear to be 5.11, unprotected face on sandy, steep rock. We backed off here from a small, fixed wired chock. May 1, 2007
Yes, take the dirt road on the left just before the main road curves left and turns to dirt. Follow this road heading towards the cliffs untill you find a gate and trailhead in the middle of nowhere. Follow the old road. Nov 7, 2005
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
My partner backed off on p1 at the layback flake due to uncertainty of pro. Looks like a cool line in a beautiful canyon. The turnoff onto the dirt road at 0.5 miles is easy to miss. If the gravel road curves left, you have gone too far. Apr 18, 2003

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