Little Bighorn

This spire/pinnacle/tower (whatever you want to call it) is located up Kodel's Canyon. Look in Bjorstad's DESERT ROCK III book (page 256,257) for directions. This route ascends the NORTH face of Little Bighorn. The bottom is wide, then it narrows near the top. Clip two drilled angles, then end the first pitch on a spacious ledge. The second pitch ascend a bolt ladder. These bolts could have been avoided with beaks and small blades. Above these bolts are a few spicy free moves to the summit. BRING A HANDRILL, AND PUT IN TWO MORE BOLTS FOR THE SUMMIT ANCHOR!!! You might want to bring a long sling (6') so you can drill the anchor further away from the original anchor. The original anchor consists of two drilled angles in white sandstone. There are multiple cracks around each angle. This anchor is very suspect. O.K. route. Great Location and Solitude. -tda

Bring a set of cams. Make sure you lug one #3.5 Camalot, two #4 Camalots, and one #4.5 Camalot. These large boys make life easier.