Avg: 1.9 from 13 votes
Routes in Fruita Canyon
|Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-|
|Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+|
|Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1|
|Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Taper (unknown) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Harvey T Carter, John Auld, Layton Kor, 5/60|
|Page Views:||1,341 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 9, 2002|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is an easy-to-access desert tower aka Defecating Monk.
From the West entrance of the monument, past the entrance kiosk, drive 1 mile up the Rim Drive road, park at the 1st hairpin curve. The uncapped tower is obvious. Hike down into the drainage and up to the base.
P1. The standard start starts up a crack system below and to the right of the chimney. There is an alternate 5.7+ start to the left. The crux moves are off the grounded and unprotected. Then you get a #9 hex, #10 hex, #3 Friend,& #4 Friend. This is a short pitch. There is a drilled angle, #1 1/2 & #2 1/2 Friends are useful for belay.
Pitch 2: go inside and up squeeze chimney and exit left onto a sloping ledge that supposedly had/has optional anchors. Continue out on face moves on sloping shingles of loose Windgate to the summit. This tower has no cap rock. Climb it before it is gone. There is a 3 piece anchor.
Rappel 110 feet to base.
It gets one star for the adventure of the climb.