Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Harvey T Carter, John Auld, Layton Kor, 5/60
Page Views: 1,557 total · 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an easy-to-access desert tower aka Defecating Monk.

From the West entrance of the monument, past the entrance kiosk, drive 1 mile up the Rim Drive road, park at the 1st hairpin curve. The uncapped tower is obvious. Hike down into the drainage and up to the base.

P1. The standard start starts up a crack system below and to the right of the chimney. There is an alternate 5.7+ start to the left. The crux moves are off the grounded and unprotected. Then you get a #9 hex, #10 hex, #3 Friend,& #4 Friend. This is a short pitch. There is a drilled angle, #1 1/2 & #2 1/2 Friends are useful for belay.

Pitch 2: go inside and up squeeze chimney and exit left onto a sloping ledge that supposedly had/has optional anchors. Continue out on face moves on sloping shingles of loose Windgate to the summit. This tower has no cap rock. Climb it before it is gone. There is a 3 piece anchor.

Rappel 110 feet to base.

It gets one star for the adventure of the climb.

Protection

Single set of cams to #4 Friend and #9/10/11 hexes are useful. A big cam might be useful.

Photos