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Routes in Split Block

Escergot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Volts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ohmer's Odyssey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perry Meson T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Dwarf T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Paul Heyliger, Chris Heyliger 7/88
Page Views: 78 total, 0/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the bolted face to the right of "Ohmer's Odyssey". This is "old-style" bolted face climbing - long runouts with serious groundfall potential in the event of bolt or belay failure. I don't recall if the bolts were 1/4" or 3/8", but considering the vintage of the route, I suspect the former.

Protection

Three bolts, no fixed anchors.

Photos

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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Crux is getting to the first bolt. A fall between bolts 2 and 3 would potentially result in a ground fall. Apr 4, 2007
When I climbed this a couple years ago, I spent a lot of time and energy trying to boulder out the moves to the firtst bolt. I kept getting to about one move shy of clipping. Scary; it would be a long hike back to the car with a broken ankle. Finally I gave up and ferreted out a very long branch to stick clip the bolt. This is definitely the way to go, as the crux is gaining the bolt, and clipping it is in the middle of one of the hardest moves. Maybe this was drilled from a hook placement? With a stick clip the climb becomes enjoyable. I recall 3/8" bolts. If this was more thoughtfully bolted, it would deserve two stars, as the climbing is high quality, on great edges. Anyone know who did the first ascent? Jan 3, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Can't recall what the bolts were, but I was never for fear of one breaking on me when I did the route a few years ago. I think that they were pretty good. If I recall correctly, the crux was some thin stuff at the beginning of the route. Dec 13, 2001