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Routes in Split Block

Escergot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Volts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ohmer's Odyssey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perry Meson T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Dwarf T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Alec Sharp, 1980
Page Views: 1,272 total, 7/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

If this were located at the base of the Bastille, there'd be a line to get on it year-round. As it stands, it only sees a handful of ascents each year. Starting with a small roof, head up the handcrack splitting the middle of the wall. It's obvious, enjoyable, and uncrowded.

If you're looking for steep thrills, adhere to the style of the first ascent and leave rope, gear, and your better judgment behind. No one will care, but no one will deny you the experience either.

Protection

Standard rack to 3".

Photos

Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Really fun pitch.
Build an anchor on the right just shy of the end with a few 1/2"-3/4" pieces and lower. (If you're going to walk this far, everyone in the party should get to lead it. Last guy gets a second lap.) Mar 14, 2016
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A 5.10 crux in the first 15' with 5.7-5.8 climbing after that. Apr 4, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
Clint Locks   Boulder
...still wigglin'. Apr 9, 2006
rob rebel
Bend, OR
rob rebel   Bend, OR
Worth the hike. A beautiful crack. #4 for the beginning. Don't trust the jug to the right in the beginning you don't need it. Mar 8, 2006
shad O'Neel  
 
The loose hold still wiggles. Great climb. Well worth it, if ever in the area. A #4 is nice to shove in while wondering if the jug is going to snap off...... Apr 18, 2005
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
  5.9
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
  5.9
An excellent climb with superb pro to hone in your crack skills. The loose flake on the right is still loose. Just a side note - the walk off to the south takes about 2 minutes, probably safer/cleaner than strangling the old tree above Perry Meson. Jul 26, 2004
The loose block is still there . . . a 3.5 was helpful, as were doubles in hand sizes as well as some hexes . . . leave the stoppers at home.

terrific route. Oct 27, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
What a view! Watch for the loose jug out right about 8' up. Dec 16, 2002
Classic Jim Erickson 5.9. An old fashioned climb. The "small roof" is actually pretty burly, and dumps you straight into a short section of left-leaning offwidth. You may want to bring something larger than a #3 Friend. Above here the rest is real fun, like the nice pitch at the base of Rincon, but without the crowds. Definitely without the crowds. Jan 3, 2002