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Routes in The Crystal Cave

Astro-glide T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dumpster Barbecue S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Glue Fairy (Under The Gun), The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport
FA: Equipped by Scott Leonard, Ryan Sappenfield, summer 1992, FA: Matt Samet, October 1992
Page Views: 2,454 total, 13/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 26, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the center route in the Crystal Cave and takes a direct line up the best rock (no choss here!). It is common to stick clip either the first or second bolt or both for rope management purposes. Since this is basically roped bouldering there's no need to chastise yourself if you start with the second bolt pre-clipped.

Begin in the center of the cave and crank through the undercut bottom on blocky features. The good blocks soon run out and a crimpy move takes you to the "cigarette pack" just below a fist-sized hole in the rock. Milk the hole, clip again, and fire through a finishing sequence that takes you left to a good pocketed seam, which then leads back up and right to the anchors.

Though notably short, this route is continuous and powerful, more akin to the bouldery routes at Hell in American Fork than anything else. Maybe that's why Utah climbers often bee-line it for the Crystal Cave after getting bouted at the Project Wall or the Arsenal ;)

The name derives from a morbid incident in which a deranged sociopath killed an elderly couple in Las Vegas in order to steal their RV. En route to Denver he decided to dump the bodies, burning them up in the trash dumpster at the Rifle rest area by I-70. He was later caught in Denver, still driving the RV.

Protection

6 quickdraws and a short rope.

Photos

kiff  
Haven't done it yet, but no way V11 by any means. Apr 25, 2012
stefan96
Boulder, Co
5.13d
stefan96   Boulder, Co
5.13d
This climb is 13d, in any other climbing area it would be 14a. Soo hard.
V11. Oct 12, 2011
Equipped by Scott Leonard, Ryan Sappenfield, summer 1992; FA: Matt Samet, October 1992. Apr 17, 2010