Type: Sport
FA: Mark VanHorn?
Page Views: 1,390 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Nov 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

This is the cool roof route located between Aspiring Frog and Energy before Ecstasy. Take the trail to the Surreal Estate Wall, and walk left a minute or so. The route goes through an obvious roof.

Climb the face past a couple bolts to the roof. There is a bolt right in the middle of the roof - clip it and crank. Just remember that an 11 this steep has to have jugs, and go for it. Make sure you're warmed up or you'll end up like me and with a wicked flash pump. Be careful as a couple of the pockets may be sharp - my partner sliced his hand pretty badly. Above the roof, work your way up the face to the anchor and glory.

Protection

Standard Shelf Road rack (QDs).

Photos

Jesse Ryan  
 
A super fun line, 3 stars in my book, but an easy tick at 11c. All but one or two committing moves felt like 5.10+ or less. Mar 31, 2003
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
First ascent is by Mark VanHorn. Dec 23, 2008
D Sharp
Boulder, CO
  5.11
D Sharp   Boulder, CO
  5.11
It's a jug-fest to the roof, but be careful as it's fairly sandy and the 1st bolt is high. But if you are on this route, I can't see how that part would be a problem, it's 5.9 at best. The roof itself is very fun to pull, but the difficulties will only begin in earnest on the headwall.

The grading seemed a bit off to me: I can see how it's a 11c going straight up hugging the bolts. Although the crux is short, it's definitely as hard as Staying Power or Thunder, if not harder. But judging from the obnoxious amount of chalk, almost everyone seems to bail to the right. That way it's 11-, or if you go far enough, maybe even easier. Mar 30, 2014