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Routes in Mount Boner

Confession S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty No-Gooders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power House Ministry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shake Hands With the Unemployed S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaking the Pope's Hand S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Effects S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smack the Cold Booty S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Andy Brown, 1996
Page Views: 147 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Move up the fairly steep and sustained slab past three bolts to the roof (5.10c). The first bolt is a bit on the high side in my opinion. From here, you have two options. (1) the natural line ascends easier ground on the right side of the flake past a couple more bolts (the same ones you just clipped topping out Confession); or (2) move slightly left and surmount the roof at a bolt. I've never been able to pull the roof variation, but the the move is shown as 11c in the latest Gillett guide. Have fun.

Location

This is the next route to the right of Smack the Cold Booty (or left of Confession), and basically climbs straight up to the flake that marks the right terminus of the big roof.

Protection

5 or 6 QDs plus something for the anchor.

Photos

The last bolt hanger has been removed by someone so either take a hand size cam, a stopper to "sling" the bolt stud, or run it out over easy rock to the anchors. Jul 23, 2009
Crusty  
I'd recommend pants if you're prone to desperation knee mantling. I never seem to get off this one without some sort of bloodshed. May 5, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
I'd give this route 2 solid stars for the .10c section down low. Sustained thin climbing on excellent rock. Jan 7, 2002
This is another good route for the area, thin 10c moves down low and much easier after the 3rd bolt. Haven't tried the roof variation, looks cool though. It seems it could use [its] own anchor as you encounter a bit of rope drag at the top. Nov 6, 2001