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Routes in Mount Boner

Confession S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty No-Gooders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power House Ministry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shake Hands With the Unemployed S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaking the Pope's Hand S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Effects S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smack the Cold Booty S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Alvino Pon, 1993.
Page Views: 2,281 total, 11/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Left of Shaking the Pope's Hand you will see an obvious 4 foot roof, which gets much bigger as you move down the crag. This route goes straight up the right side of the roof, right at the point where it forms a dihedral above (yes, I know this is kind of a lame description, but it's clear when you're there).

A bouldery start leads to the first bolt (10+/11- unless you use the cheater's start on a boulder), then it is 5.8 past two more bolts to the roof and a no-hands rest. Hardmen/women will just fire up and clip the next bolt mid-crux. Softies will place a green Alien in a flake above the roof first. Solve the strange crux sequence to surmount the roof, then go up on much easier ground past one more bolt to the chain anchor. This is a fun route.

Protection

5 QDs plus something for the chain anchor. Those who want even better pro on the crux roof can bring along a blue TCU or green Alien.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Watch yer left shin or ya might leave a few hairs, blood, or more if you aren't careful pulling the roof. Jun 25, 2005
Tim Fleming
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tim Fleming   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
For anyone climbing this crux under 5'8" or so, the holds just over the roof are very tough if not impossible to reach unless you use a toe hook under the roof in the crack and hang on a good hold (right hand) at the edge of the roof... then you can reach up and grab (left hand) the flake jug easily. Try it out no matter what height --- it's a very fun option to manage the crux this way. Aug 13, 2002
Yes, you can clip the bolt over the roof without [committing] to the moves (I'm 5'9"), then power thru the roof, an excellent route for the area. Nov 6, 2001
Darin Lang  
 
Charles, I've wondered about leading this route on gear, too. The crux and above would definitely have reasonable pro, although, as you note, the 5.8 below the crux would be iffy. Perhaps this could be one of the first routes of the imminent "retro-trad" renaissance. ;-) Nov 6, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
It is possible to climb into the crux sequence, clip the bolt, and down-climb to the no-hands rest. It is also possible (but somewhat aggravating) to clip the bolt, just barely, by scrunching yourself up under the roof, without commiting to the holds above the roof. The route would be an interesting gear lead, reasonably protected at the roof, but run-out below on 5.8. Nov 5, 2001