Type: Boulder
FA: Gill
Page Views: 3,324 total · 15/month
Shared By: Zachary Thomas on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Avoid the left arete and use the small crips on the face. The crux is using the small undercling under the roof and obtaining the small crips over the lip. Then powering to the top.


Crash pad.


An overclimbed route. The ground has sunk over a foot and a half (including the pavers !)in the last 30 years from human traffic alone. The first time I climbed at Rotary in '72 I could just barely touch the bottom of the roof from the ground and I'm (or was) 5'10". Not to even mention the masssive erosion of the starting foot holds. The stickyness of modern shoe rubber is just barely able to keep up with the polish of the holds. See my comments on the Eliminator and the Mental Block for more rantings from a "Crotchity Old Fart" Jan 4, 2002
The photos by Skip of Zac on the Talent Scout are NOT the "Undercling". You have the undercling with your right hand and make the delicate reach with your left before matching your right. Zac is pulling off the arete with his left and reaching with his right! The "Old Fart" is doing it right. Jan 8, 2002
Yes, truly a sorry couple photos. Young Fart doing it right?!?!? His legs are cut off - I'm calling it, he's standing on a chair and posing hard. Lame lame lame. Jan 8, 2002
Yeah, you got me. It was 30 years ago and I can't remember the chair part so I was either standing on the head of my pet dinosaur or had just dropped a handful of purple micro-dot and was levitating myself :) Jan 9, 2002
Krister Sorensen
Centennial, CO
Krister Sorensen   Centennial, CO
I'm going to give credit to the Old Fart. I just got this one a couple of days ago. It either really works with my climbing style or it is a V5/6. Cornerlock is just as hard and it is a V4. With everything so polished it is best to climb early in the morining when it is cold. Aug 16, 2003