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Routes in Independence Wall

Campaign Trail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Democrat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Independence Day S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Liberty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party Line S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right To Be Wrong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock the Vote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Willie's Wonder-Goo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 205 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 29, 2001
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This route starts downhill from the tree in the gully. Belay across the gully. Crank on a hollow flake past the first bolt for a powerful start. Chase a right-facing flake, then continue up the face past more cruxes, with the hardest crux at the top.

Protection [Edit]

Six bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

One of 5 unbelieveably bad routes that are up the hill and left of the main section of the Anarchy Wall. This route is the furthest to the right and is distinguished by lichen, bushes, loose rock, and breaking holds. The bolts appear to be safe, but the route gets an "s" for the chance of hitting your belayer with one of many big hunks of rotten rock that are waiting to come down. The climb mimics the approach gully, which is a trough of scree and small boulders. Avoid this route at all costs. Oct 26, 2001
Actually I thought the routes here were not too bad, and this may be the best one, but then I can't climb the stuff at Anarchy Wall. This was probably the least loose of the lot. Although I fell on the last crux, the most scary part was definitely crossing the scree slope at the bottom, I'm glad I had a belay for that!Personally I can't see how this gets an 11c, but maybe all the cleaning has made it easier. Oct 7, 2002
micah stocker  
5.11a
This is a good route the belay is somewhat sketchy. This route gets some crap, but I think over all it has potential. There are some great moves just off the ground; however, I am not sure about the rating, maybe 11a/b. Feb 11, 2004
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Best route on the wall. Still very short and dirty but not nearly as chalked up as most of Clear Creek perhaps justifying a harder rating, but the moves felt 11a/b. May 8, 2006
Matt Monty
Denver, Colorado
  5.11a
Matt Monty   Denver, Colorado
  5.11a
I agree with Walt. I climbed this on 6/8/14 (over 10 years after his post). Loose rock still fell from the route and down the gully. I left the crag with two bleeding shins caused by two separate rockslide incidents down the gully.

The climb itself is pretty fun; I agree with two stars, but because of the terrain, I would not visit this crag again. I believe the climb is closer to 5.10+/5.11-. Jun 8, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.11a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11a/b
This route has significantly improved & cleaned up since I climbed it in 1999. I remember a scary flake at the start. Seems to be gone. I originally agreed with Alan's 5.11c grade. It feels like .10d to .11a to the last bolt. Then the good holds die out & some weird sidepull moves finish. The finish is still the insecure crux. May 28, 2017

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