Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Montezuma Tower
|
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
West Face Direct TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | U.S. Army climbers, 1950s, FFA: Harvey Carter, 1950 |
| Page Views: | 45,705 total · 162/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on Aug 24, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is super classic. It is one of the best 5.7 climbs in Colorado, and it ascends the narrow North ridge of Montezuma's Tower, offering up good moves on reasonably solid conglomerate sandstone, tremendous exposure and short cruxes. Usually it is done in two pitches, although it is possible to do it in one pitch with a 60m rope. Keep in mind that you still will need two ropes for the rap off.
Begin at the base of the North ridge, climbing unprotected but moderate rock to the first of three giant eyebolts (5.7). Run it out up the ridge (5.4), threading a pothole along the way if you feel uncomfortable, until reaching a small ledge which, in 2021, has a glue-in eyebolt and pin (previously a 3-pin belay - one of the pins could be pulled out by hand but due to its orientation, provided good protection). If you wish, you can rap from this ledge.
Pitch two is a short one, moving past a short vertical section (5.7) to the summit and a 3-pin belay.
Rap off to the West with two ropes (or one 70m rope).
59 Comments