Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: U.S. Army climbers, 1950s, FFA: Harvey Carter, 1950
Page Views: 38,722 total · 160/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 24, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Lifted: 2020 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is super classic. It is one of the best 5.7 climbs in Colorado, and it ascends the narrow North ridge of Montezuma's Tower, offering up good moves on reasonably solid conglomerate sandstone, tremendous exposure and short cruxes. Usually it is done in two pitches, although it is possible to do it in one pitch with a 60m rope. Keep in mind that you still will need two ropes for the rap off.

Begin at the base of the North ridge, climbing unprotected but moderate rock to the first of three giant eyebolts (5.7). Run it out up the ridge (5.4), threading a pothole along the way if you feel uncomfortable, until reaching a small ledge which, in 2021, has a glue-in eyebolt and pin (previously a 3-pin belay - one of the pins could be pulled out by hand but due to its orientation, provided good protection). If you wish, you can rap from this ledge.

Pitch two is a short one, moving past a short vertical section (5.7) to the summit and a 3-pin belay.

Rap off to the West with two ropes (or one 70m rope).

Protection

A few QDs, a very small selection of cams and stoppers, and a long sling to thread a pothole.

Photos