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Routes in Montezuma Tower

North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
West Face Direct TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Auld
Page Views: 1,651 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nelson on May 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This thing was pretty bad. Myself and two friends wanted to get on the North Ridge, but it was packed, so we jumped on this pile. I remember the rock felt like climbing out of a sandbox. All pro was pretty shotty I used two medium cams, and I remember clipping a screamer to a nail (normally a nail would be slang for pin or piton, but no, by nail I mean a small rusty nail hammered in the rock). When I look back, it was a great adventure but one I would not recommend to most unless you like to scrub you drawers after a climb. Later that year we went on to the Warren Johnson route and I thought the rock was more solid for a comparison.

Protection

Gear, pin, nail.

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Umph!  
Enigma description. May 4, 2007