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Routes in Skinner Mountain

1937 route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beached Whale (Unknown 2) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave Bell Memorial S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eastern Front T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lookatdat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skin the Cat (Unknown 1) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vegomatic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wally World T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad
FA: [Dave Bell]
Page Views: 5,770 total, 29/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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42 Opinions

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Description

An aesthetic hand crack in a vertical to overhanging dihedral on Skinner Mountain's obvious headwall, Central Corner provides pleasant if sometimes awkward jams, great pro, and fantastic position. It definitely gets three stars and is worth the hike up to Skinner just for this climb.

Central Corner proper is actually the third pitch of any number of climbs on Skinner's lower section. The fastest way to reach the base is by climbing the first two pitches of Wally World (easy). It can also be reached by climbing your choice of a 5.7 slab, a 5.8 slab, or a 5.9- slab beginning around the corner to the left of the start of Wally World. Just pick a line of bolts and head up.

Once in view of the vertical to slightly overhanging headwall, Central Corner is obvious as the only feasible (for mere mortals) line, located in the ominous-looking dihedral approximately in the middle of the headwall. Begin with a few awkward moves to establish yourself in the crack and then fire up past a couple of overhangs to the top. A short wider spot near the bottom can be skirted by using a thin crack on the face. There is really no obvious crux - just fairly sustained 9+ the whole way up.

Protection

About 4 #2 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots would really sew it up. Otherwise, take a standard rack weighted towards hand-sized pieces: a few medium and large hexes, a small selection of medium stoppers (a #6 Stopper is just about right), a #1 Camalot, at least two #2 Camalots/2.5 Friends and one #3 Camalot or #4 Friend.
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
Third pitch is just plain rad. Classic for the grade. Great jams, plenty to use on the face, perfect pro, and as another guy said, jugs right when you want em. I used a 4, a 3.5, a 3, and two 2s, along with a few smaller pieces. You could easily aid up it, though. Apr 26, 2014
Kevin P
Loveland
Kevin P   Loveland
I would probably be happy with three 2s and three 3s, then again, I am a big baby. Mar 23, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
I did this for the third time today. I found out it is not a good idea when it is seeping water and has ice on the rock at the top. I had to use two points of "aid". Mar 23, 2014
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
If you haven't climbed this yet, you should ask yourself why. You are not likely to find a better pitch of 5.10 climbing 20 minutes from the highway anywhere. Just saying. Aug 25, 2013
I led Kevin Smyth up the crux, final pitch, all free, on Jan 17, 1982. My friend Steve Sarns had done it previously, using some aid. We climbed this pitch before the Baker/Prandoni 1986 "FA" listed in Hubbel's guidebook. We all climbed the first two pitches of what is now called "Wally World" enroute to the spectacular final pitch. This rock had no bolts in those days. Jan 3, 2013
Chris Mack
  5.10a
Chris Mack  
  5.10a
Just did this again this morning with Nick Barczak. That last pitch is classic. Perfect hands, great features on the face, and jugs appear right when you want them. If you do a lot of crack climbing, you may not even need tape! Such a great line! May 27, 2012
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
A #4 c4 is useful. You can bump it up, but leave it by the little chockstone. You won't need it beyond there....

1 #4 (optional, but nice)
2 #3
2 #2 Jan 12, 2010
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
 
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
 
Very fun route, been on it several times and it never gets old. Nov 23, 2009
Shane Neal
Colorado Springs, CO.
 
Shane Neal   Colorado Springs, CO.
 
Vey nice crack. Great pro, super view, beautiful summit view. A must do. Jun 25, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
This route is pretty sweet! don't need much gear, I used a 3.5, and 3 #2s.

Might have been nice to have 2 #3.5s or a #4. Jan 28, 2009
TBD
  5.10a
TBD  
  5.10a
Great pitch that looks harder from the start than it is. Best approach seems to be the 5.7ish slab route with welded cold shuts.

I think a single set of cams with two #4 Friends (an extra #3.5 would work, too) protects this well. I brought doubles in the hand sizes and was good with a single #2.5, 3, and 3.5 Friend. Just FYI for those who don't feel like lugging the extra gear only to sit on it at the belay. There's a few placements on the face for smaller stuff.

Descent: scramble off the backside and find a faint trail to climber's right. Jun 22, 2008