Type: Trad
FA: [Dave Bell]
Page Views: 6,159 total · 29/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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An aesthetic hand crack in a vertical to overhanging dihedral on Skinner Mountain's obvious headwall, Central Corner provides pleasant if sometimes awkward jams, great pro, and fantastic position. It definitely gets three stars and is worth the hike up to Skinner just for this climb.

Central Corner proper is actually the third pitch of any number of climbs on Skinner's lower section. The fastest way to reach the base is by climbing the first two pitches of Wally World (easy). It can also be reached by climbing your choice of a 5.7 slab, a 5.8 slab, or a 5.9- slab beginning around the corner to the left of the start of Wally World. Just pick a line of bolts and head up.

Once in view of the vertical to slightly overhanging headwall, Central Corner is obvious as the only feasible (for mere mortals) line, located in the ominous-looking dihedral approximately in the middle of the headwall. Begin with a few awkward moves to establish yourself in the crack and then fire up past a couple of overhangs to the top. A short wider spot near the bottom can be skirted by using a thin crack on the face. There is really no obvious crux - just fairly sustained 9+ the whole way up.


About 4 #2 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots would really sew it up. Otherwise, take a standard rack weighted towards hand-sized pieces: a few medium and large hexes, a small selection of medium stoppers (a #6 Stopper is just about right), a #1 Camalot, at least two #2 Camalots/2.5 Friends and one #3 Camalot or #4 Friend.
Great pitch that looks harder from the start than it is. Best approach seems to be the 5.7ish slab route with welded cold shuts.

I think a single set of cams with two #4 Friends (an extra #3.5 would work, too) protects this well. I brought doubles in the hand sizes and was good with a single #2.5, 3, and 3.5 Friend. Just FYI for those who don't feel like lugging the extra gear only to sit on it at the belay. There's a few placements on the face for smaller stuff.

Descent: scramble off the backside and find a faint trail to climber's right. Jun 22, 2008
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
This route is pretty sweet! don't need much gear, I used a 3.5, and 3 #2s.

Might have been nice to have 2 #3.5s or a #4. Jan 28, 2009
Shane Neal
Colorado Springs, CO.
Shane Neal   Colorado Springs, CO.
Vey nice crack. Great pro, super view, beautiful summit view. A must do. Jun 25, 2009
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
Very fun route, been on it several times and it never gets old. Nov 23, 2009
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
A #4 c4 is useful. You can bump it up, but leave it by the little chockstone. You won't need it beyond there....

1 #4 (optional, but nice)
2 #3
2 #2 Jan 12, 2010
Chris Mack
Chris Mack  
Just did this again this morning with Nick Barczak. That last pitch is classic. Perfect hands, great features on the face, and jugs appear right when you want them. If you do a lot of crack climbing, you may not even need tape! Such a great line! May 27, 2012
I led Kevin Smyth up the crux, final pitch, all free, on Jan 17, 1982. My friend Steve Sarns had done it previously, using some aid. We climbed this pitch before the Baker/Prandoni 1986 "FA" listed in Hubbel's guidebook. We all climbed the first two pitches of what is now called "Wally World" enroute to the spectacular final pitch. This rock had no bolts in those days. Jan 3, 2013
Luke Clarke
Luke Clarke   Golden
If you haven't climbed this yet, you should ask yourself why. You are not likely to find a better pitch of 5.10 climbing 20 minutes from the highway anywhere. Just saying. Aug 25, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I did this for the third time today. I found out it is not a good idea when it is seeping water and has ice on the rock at the top. I had to use two points of "aid". Mar 23, 2014
Kevin P
Kevin P   Loveland
I would probably be happy with three 2s and three 3s, then again, I am a big baby. Mar 23, 2014
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
Third pitch is just plain rad. Classic for the grade. Great jams, plenty to use on the face, perfect pro, and as another guy said, jugs right when you want em. I used a 4, a 3.5, a 3, and two 2s, along with a few smaller pieces. You could easily aid up it, though. Apr 26, 2014