Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 336 total · 5/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is not mine, but it is an interesting route with 2 cruxes.

The 1st bolt is hidden in a dish about 10' up, just left of that tree (not the best place; it may actually be for Easy Out). I didn't use it, since I started a few feet to the left, angling slightly toward the big ledge with obvious bolts in the headwall. Surmount this and get to the bulgy crux (where I executed a Beached Whale maneuver). I believe the original line went over the bulge using the crack 4' left, but the new bolts go straight up to the anchor.

Pretty nifty!

Location

This is near the center of the wall, just left of Easy Out (a right-tending diagonal seam covered by a tree leaning against face). You can see a bolt in a face 20+ feet up.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to double chain anchors.

Photos

Chip Loomis
  5.9+
Chip Loomis  
  5.9+
So true with the namesake. The directly above was also cruxy, thin for 5.9 Oct 16, 2016
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.9 PG13
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.9 PG13
The route is fun, a little dicey at the crux bulge and above. If you use the crack to the left of the bulge, there is potential for a nasty fall. Sep 3, 2017