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Routes in Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice

Blame James T WI3+
Bouldering Area, The T WI2-3
From Out of Nowhere T WI3-4
Isostasy T WI4+
Main Flow T WI2+
Middle Flow T WI3
Ouray for Boulder T WI4 M3
Photon Torpedo T WI3-4
Ramp, The T WI2
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Type: Trad, Ice, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,496 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Details: This climb is the farthest iceflow on the right. The route follows a wide, angled slab to a tree with many variations possible. This route is the best introduction to ice climbing in the area! I did my first ice topropes and first ice lead here. A few ~4-5 ft tall vertical ledges usually form mid winter for an added challenge. The left hand side of the route has a good crack that does not hold ice. It is possible to experiment with mixed climbing or place rock pro here The route does not form until late in the year, usually later than the other climbs in the area. Wait until mid winter for it to get thick enough to take the long screws that inspire confidence. Many climbers lead or solo this route to access the toprope anchors above. If you plan to toprope, please be courteous and allow other climbers to lead past you, the route is wide enough to accommodate several parties. The climb is 100-120 feet long so if you plan to toprope make sure to bring two ropes. The picture below is shown in extremely lean conditions, fall of 2000.

Descent: Climb up to the aqueduct and walk along the top of the covered aqueduct (a dirt trail) until you spot a trail heading downhill through the trees.

Toprope access can be gained by following this trail < 50 yards to the right of the route.

Protection

Screws, some nut and cam placements can be found to the left of the route in lean conditions.

Toprope Protection

Top rope from trees at the top of the route, bring slings 10-20 feet long and two ropes.

Photos

Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
Climbed this 2-18-06 and found it, for only my second time on ice, to be pretty mellow. There is a two-sling, two-ring anchor attached to a small tree at the top of the route, but it is pretty far off to the right (west). Depending on how much ice is covering the top half of the route, you'll want a directional. Also, a single 50m rope was insufficient to TR the route. Probably a 60m would come up a bit short as well. Definitely a nice introduction to the sport. Feb 21, 2006

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