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Routes in Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice

Blame James T WI3+
Bouldering Area, The T WI2-3
From Out of Nowhere T WI3-4
Isostasy T WI4+
Main Flow T WI2+
Middle Flow T WI3
Ouray for Boulder T WI4 M3
Photon Torpedo T WI3-4
Ramp, The T WI2
Type: Trad, Ice, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,668 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Mar 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details: This climb is the leftmost main iceflow and is the longest climb in Boulder Canyon. The route follows a wide, thick flow with many variations possible. Variation 2a follows a smooth angled route to the top of the aqueduct. On the left, variation 2b takes the more direct line to climb a short, near vertical section. Mid-winter a steep curtain forms on the left-most edge of this section that offers some more challenging moves. Above this steep section, the angle recedes and the remainder of the climb is on low angle ice up to the bushes. Many climbers lead this route to access the toprope anchors above. If you plan to toprope, please be courteous and allow other climbers to lead past you. The route is wide enough to accommodate several parties. The climb is 80-150 feet long depending upon where you set your toprope/belay station. This route is often climbed in two pitches, but can be done in one long pitch. If you plan to toprope, you may need two ropes for a setup from the bushes. Most people repel from the bushes above, or lead, to access the trees midway up for a toprope setup. For climbs on the left side, a toprope setup on the old dead tree above backed up with boulders provides a better angle. Use long slings and your best judgment to asses the security of the anchor. This provides the most secure anchor and best angle above the climb. The picture below is shown in the fall of 2000. Decent: Climb up to the aqueduct and walk along the top of the covered aqueduct (a dirt trail) until you spot a trail heading downhill through the trees. Toprope access can be gained by following this trail < 50 yards to the right of the route and downclimbing or repelling from the top.



Toprope Protection

Toprope from tree and bush at top of first curtain. Use screws for a directional to bring rope over cave opening. Use a 60 meter rope and this set-up will work well. TR'ing from bushes on top leaves too much slack and stretch making a ledge fall possible (likely) from the curtain.
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
Main Flow is in less than ideal conditions. Jan 13, 2008
Climbed the main flow today in snowstorm. The ice was still in good shape and is repairing itself nightly. Lots of verglass on the rock slab to the west of the flow. Looked climbable although we stayed on the main curtain. 3-4 inches of fresh powder but roads were fine...only a few accidents and no cars in the creek. The auxillary area to the east is also still building and was excellent. Too bad that freestanding [pillar] wasn't longer! Still good fun to be had in BC. Mar 9, 2002
Did the main flow yesterday afternoon. Chopped up and starting to get wet in spots as warm air returns. The middle flow is in pretty fat as well as a 20-25 foot vertical detached spire left of the main flow. Enjoy! Mar 5, 2002