Type: Sport
FA: Merrill Bitter, Mike Beck 1989
Page Views: 4,006 total · 24/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 8, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

68 Opinions

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Once at the Pile area, this route is directly to the right of Gomer Pile and shares anchors with it. Getting up to the third bolt is pretty easy, with it being 5.10 climbing. Clipping the fourth bolt is a challenge as you're on a small, somewhat slopey hold. After that, is the crux of the climb, then huge jugs the rest of the way up.


7 draws.


Salt Lake, Utah
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
I think this route is fantastic! One of my favorite 12's. I used a right undercling on the crux, that had zero chalk but was actually pretty good and an intermediate to get to the clipping crimps. Aug 6, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Really fun climb. Dyno past the 4th bolt off the crimp to the somewhat hidden jug up and left. Great ending move. Jun 20, 2011
Cool route. One move wonder at the top. Sep 9, 2011
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
I really like this one! It's got a really cool tricky clip followed by a big move off a crimp. Jul 20, 2012
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
Clip the 4th bolt after getting to the semi good left side pull, then go to the right hand crimp - lunge for the jug then clip again. Timing those clips is crucial. Also make sure you put an extended draw on bolt 4. You don't want the rope/biner getting pinched on the rock there. Sep 14, 2012
bheller   SL UT
Definitley not a 1 move wonder. 5.10 climbing till past the 3rd bolt, then a difficult clip, and a true 6-8 move boulder problem (V4)is encountered. There are many ways to do the crux, V4 is the easiest it gets. Going direct up the small crips and big moves makes this a great 12b for a 13a climber. Sep 20, 2013
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
I agree that it is mid 5.10 to a V4. The crux bolt is hard to clip. Clip the 5th bolt once the crux is over from above when hands are on a large, flat jug. The top 15 feet is trivial 5.8. I used to do the boulder problem with undercling sidepulls. My sequence used a drop knee and step throughs trending left. I have not seen anyone else do the crux the same way that I liked to do it, and I spent a lot of time at this cliff running laps on Right Pile in the summers. There are many options for the boulder problem crux, most more powerful than the way that I did it. Either way the last move is a long huck from a half-pad incut crimp to a full hand flat jug. I have seen maximum 5.12b limit endurance climbers feel sandbagged on this climb. Solid V6 boulders' will have no problem on this one. Feb 1, 2014