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Routes in King on the Throne - East

Jug World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snakes and Ladders T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stan's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Z-Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,774 total, 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Jug World is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is the farthest continous crack system on the left side of the face. The climb is only about 30-40 feet in length. Jug haul your way up the face holds and sharp crack with the crux getting off the ground. After gaining the ridge, traverse right to a horizontal crack (quite a ways) where an anchor can be set.

There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.

Protection

Standard rack - I placed from .75 camalot up to 3 camalot. There is no anchor, but a distant crack that can eat up #3 and #3.5 camalots.

Photos

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This is one of my favorite City of Rocks climbs. While short, it has several bouldery crux moves down low, including some committing hand jams necessary for placing protection. I'm always grinning when I top this one out! Jun 20, 2011
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
It's easy to continue climbing up and over the formation to the rap anchors and belay from there. No gear needed! Jul 29, 2006