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Routes in King on the Throne - East

Jug World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snakes and Ladders T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stan's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Z-Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stan Caldwell
Page Views: 247 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Either wedge yourself in the chimney and have some physical fun or pinch the arete to the right. either way, eventually reach a roof with great hand jams and pull it.

Location

The route is just left of the Snakes and Ladders face. The obvious roof w/ a thin hand crack.

Protection

Up to a #2 camalot. Lots of small stuff for the lower corner. Descend via a tree w/ slings and rap rings.

Photos

CamBrown
Clackamas
 
CamBrown   Clackamas
 
A purple #0 micro master cam and a small nut protected the crux. Once I jammed the roof it felt soooo good! Short and stout for the grade. Jun 13, 2016
Sean A Smith
South Salt Lake, UT
  5.10c PG13
Sean A Smith   South Salt Lake, UT
  5.10c PG13
The gear at the crux is not amazing but you can place a couple of pieces that seem adequate. I ended up placing a 000 C3 at one point. Apr 18, 2016
Yep, 10- is a sandbag. After review, I'm going with 10c! Apr 20, 2015
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
This was a popular test piece as early as '76. Did it that year with Rick Wyatt - off width master. And, we found an old fixed pin just above the little roof. Dec 2, 2012
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
"Descend via a tree with rap rings"
-Maybe I missed this tree, but I just built an anchor, brought my second up and descended the chains atop groovy crack. Sep 23, 2010
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Definitely a rewarding climb. the portion below the roof requires a few tricky placements with some not so regular moves. I agree with the "body english" statement, but its a cruise past the roof. Sep 5, 2010
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
This entire rock is just full of sandbags. Jun 5, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Probably 10b or 10c. The stemming work is not rudimentary. Beware of sandbags. A few small nuts protect some interesting climbing, so not for the trad noobie. Fun route though, and certainly height dependent. May 1, 2007
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
scary down low with minimal good pro. physical. good route though. Feb 6, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route, but you better enjoy some good ol' fasion "body english", or you won't be having a good time.... Sep 27, 2006
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I put the route in the database as a .10- because that's how it's listed in the book. Personally, I feel the thing's a scorchin' sandbag! The roof is easy, but the lower dihedral is REALLY physical!! Jul 29, 2006