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Routes in Standard Ridge

Standard Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,466 total, 23/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on May 20, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Approach as for Challenge Buttress. Continue up the talus past Winky and Waxman to the Strone Crag on climber's right of the gully. Start here. Gain the ridge and ride it for 8 to 10 pitches. Expect sections of (very) loose rock (wear a helmet!), and sections of excellent bulletproof quartzite. Pass gendarmes on the right (west) for more solid rock.

Stop at the gully above Glass Ocean. Descend this gully (to the east). The top of the gully is loose and kinda scary, but it gets better. I'm guessing that the total descent time is about 30 minutes to an hour.

In order to preserve the adventure of this route, I don't want to reveal too much detail. Have fun.


A full set of nuts. Cams, blue alien through #3.5 Camalot, or hexes in the larger sizes. If you've climbed Outside Corner on JHCOB, use the same range of sizes.
We approached the ridge via Wealth of Nations, (Strone Crag) which adds a great pitch and sets you up right on the ridge. The climbing was moderate but fun and exposed in a few spots. We descended by hiking up and east above the Glass Ocean area. You can see the top of High Dive as you descend. We didn't need to make any rappels. I'd do this route again. Sep 3, 2017
Josh Woods
Denver, Colorado
Josh Woods   Denver, Colorado
This route is quite a bit of fun, but not one I would likely do again. If you start in the gully following the blue start you will climb through many bushes and wet, muddy rock for the first pitch. Once you reach the ridge where there is better rock and you and can see to both the West and East there is a long section which we climbed unroped in a shallow gully that we had to walk to. This was to the west of a large face that ends in a false summmit. Go to the right of this blocky steep feature and continue up the West gully to regain the ridge past the falst summit. This is where we roped up again and bilt an anchor. I don't know if anyone actually climbs that section of the ridge we bypassed so if anyone has let me know.

The section immediately after the notch/west gully is great climbing for the grade and probably the only reason this climb has two stars. It is pretty runout on some parts but the protection isn't bad and the climbing is easy with pretty solid rock. Yoy will know when you get to it when you have the exoosure to the east and can see up the canyon. I mostly placed small stoppers and a few small cams, nothing bigger than a .75. Went from the notch to the summit in one pitch, coming over one shallow roof and another cruxy section with a very large right leaning crack that brings you to the top. There really isn't a true summit so you need to think about getting down before you climb too high past the trees.

We also decided to descend to the west down an obvious gully and rappaled off the tree since the descent to the east was unclear and looked rather trecherous by comparison From the notch to the summit is really only the pitch worth going up there for. It is more mind boggling and sloppy than it is adventurous, but a lot of fun can be had here and the view is spectacular. It's also a good reminder that some multipitch trad routes can feel contrived while you are on them, but you definitely enjoy the trip in retrospect. May 9, 2016
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
The better quality start for this is essentially directly across the gully from "cTr 5.10a" on the west face of the challenge buttress. It entails about 30ft of easy 5th to a nice hand crack. Naturally there are some suspect areas of rock, but that's just a nice reminder to stay on your toes for the entirety of the ridge. Jun 22, 2015
Start higher up in the Challenge Gully. We started on the lowest point of this ridge and it was just bad loose rock. Sep 7, 2013
Just climbed this 2 days ago (Aug 4th, 2009) and wanted to add a few things.

The base of the Rush Wall is litered with a bunch of huge boulders... weighing a ton or so each. We had one of these slide off on us (fortunately my partner had the anchor on a different boulder). It was stacked on another angled rock... my partner had stood on it checking the belay. It slide later when I was about to start the pitch. Huge, massive rockfall, which probably went all the way down to the trail below which connects Challenge Butress to Narcolepsy. All of that to say that you shouldn't trust the boulders below the Rush Wall for you anchor system for fear of being pulled down with a boulder should it slide.

For what it's worth, there are also several death blocks waiting to kill someone on the pitch heading up from that, so be very careful what you pull on. Aug 6, 2009
Ben Folsom  
This is a really nice ridge climb. I thought the rock was generally excellent! We pretty much were able to avoid any loose rock, in fact this route has WAY better rock and seemed WAY safer than the Outside Corner on JHCOB wall.
Maura and I climbed this route in 6 pitches (no simul-climbing). We were using a 70 meter rope. There was also a bit of unroped scrambling near the end of the ridge. We were also able to do some climbing on the Rush Wall, about halfway up the ridge, which was a nice diversion.
We brought a set of nuts and a set of cams to #3.5 camalot size. Maybe a bit much, but that is my standard rack for most everything in the Wasatch, and we used most of it. Jul 6, 2009
The gear listed is a bit much. The ridge is very moderate and only has a few cruxy moves. Every time we did a "harder" move, it was over really fast. A single set of nuts and a hex or two is all you really need. Instead of a hex, maybe a yellow C4. Some slings would be a good idea as wel. Did a lot of simul-climbing and was surprised when we were done how much ground we actually covered. We also droped down to the west instead of east to descend. We did have to do a bit of 3rd class and one short rap from a tree. But after that, the gully went really fast and put us right back at the base of the ridge. We also did a variation on the last pitch, which I posted as the "5.8 variation". Jun 26, 2008