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Routes in Engagement Alcove

An 80/20 Ratio S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Ball Head S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Choose Your Weapon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Best Friends Harem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mylanta S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penile Atrophy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 10d? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wet Itchies S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 1,185 total · 7/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Sep 4, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the obvious waterstreak to the left of Choose your Weapon, and to the right of the moss. There are about 6 bolts which lead to a two bolt anchor. A fun, straightforward, easy climb for the area.

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchors, and a helmet for the belayer is always recommended here.

Photos

Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Having to clear the ledge to get to the anchors is fun, but creates so much nasty rope drag if you belay down or TR after that. Not a fan of that, but otherwise it was a good climb for our first trip to Maple. Jun 3, 2014
Chris H L
  5.7
Chris H L  
  5.7
This climb was a bit dirty. The end was really weird. There is a nice rest stop where the anchors should have been but instead you have to mantle over the top into a pile of moss and dirt to get to them. Okay, but there are better climbs around. Sep 16, 2012
Greg Taylor  
 
This is a nice route for beginners. Good holds and lots of places to rest.

Thank you for replacing the anchors however the new location doesn't make sense to me. Would have been great if they were below the lip to avoid rope drag and an odd ending to an otherwise nice climb. May 17, 2010
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
I replaced the anchors on this route today, May 14, 2010. They have been in dire need or replacement for years and I finally got around to it. The previous anchor station was at a break in the wall where the route turns from vertical to a low-angle couloir. They are now located about 10 feet higher and to the right, out of the water streak. You have to make the mantel move over the top to get to them now. I replaced the previous anchor station with a new protection bolt. I also checked all of the other bolts and they are tight and good to go. I think I'll replace ALL of them with glue-ins this summer.

Maybe this route will get a little higher quality rating with the new anchor station. I've always thought it was better than 1.5 stars. More like 2.5

Enjoy!

Jason Stevens May 14, 2010
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
Funny, there was a bat screeching at us in a pocket on this route. Sep 4, 2006
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Watch out if climbing this route this year (2006); half way up the route in a finger pocket is a bees nest and I got swarmed and stung by the devils. The pocket is right to the left hand side by the 4th or 5th bolt; beware. Other than that, excellent warm up route! Solid 5.9+ if the bees are swarming and stinging you.:) Jul 16, 2006