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Routes in Engagement Alcove

An 80/20 Ratio S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Ball Head S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Weapon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Best Friends Harem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mylanta S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penile Atrophy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 10d? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wet Itchies S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 1,302 total · 7/month
Shared By: Harvey Miller on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Nice, well-protected crimpy climbing just right of the black streak (Wet Ichies - 5.8).


Six bolts to an anchor - however, see comments on anchor condition below.


Harvey Miller
Harvey Miller  
Note: On May 2, 2004, the hangers were missing from the anchors. You have two choices: i) climb a 30 foot run-out to an ice climbing anchor above the CYW anchor (fairly mellow - 5.6, but a fall could be ugly). ii) probably safer - traverse to the left to the anchors for Wet Ichies. May 4, 2004
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
Yeah, wtf is up with that? Is it because the rock the anchors are in look like it could come out as a watermelon chunk if someone fell on it hard enough? I chose to go right and use the bolt from 'An 80/20 Ratio' and up to those anchors.

still no hangers as of 6-24-07 Jun 25, 2007
Michael Rose
Michael Rose  
I replaced the anchors on this route today (5/31/2008). Hopefully they'll stick around this time. May 31, 2008
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
Michael, thanks for replacing those! I think I'll move the anchors up another 10 feet. It's better rock and the final moves would be a lot better.

Jason May 14, 2010

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